When it came time to start looking for summer wines, I went back to the well that was so good to us last year. With restaurants closed, we were able to snag Bisci Verdicchio, a little white wine that went nuts and was one of our most re-ordered wines in history. But this year, with restaurants back online, our allocation for Bisci took a pretty big hit.
No problem, I thought. I’ll just find another crisp, mineral laced Verdicchio to offer up to the Nicholas faithful. That proved to be a bit more difficult than I thought. The first six I tried weren’t of the same caliber, neither were any in the next six. One of them was probably there in quality but I would’ve had to offer it for $30. Don’t worry, I saved you the time of turning it down.
But in my third line up I finally struck gold. I mean, I really struck gold.
Look, am I fiery? Can I be confrontational? Yes and yes. But do I ever say things just to stir the pot? That aint really my style. So I’m not saying this lightly but it is a matter of one man’s opinion… This Verdicchio from Umani Ronchi isn’t as good as Bisci, it’s better.
I know that Thomas Keller isn’t pouring this one at French Laundry or Daniel Humm at EMP… but this wine is absolutely lights out– a flawless white wine. Don’t take my word for it– critics love it too. It has a 91pt Editors’ Choice rating from Enthusiast, a matching 91 from James Suckling and a 90 from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate who declared, “you don’t get better value than this”. But they’re all right– you don’t. Anywhere.
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91 Points (Editors’ Choice), Wine Enthusiast
Aromas of botanical herb, white stone fruit and almond carry on to the savory palate along with peach and a hint of lemon drop. It closes on a hint of saline while tangy acidity keeps it fresh and juicy.
91 Points, James Suckling
Aromas of lemon zest, fresh pear, lemongrass and wet stones. It’s medium-bodied with bright acidity and a waxy texture. Flavorful, mineral finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
90 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
The 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore CaSal di Serra (made with organic fruit) shows a light and luminous appearance that appears shiny in the glass. The wine offers simple but exceptionally pure aromas of spring flower, citrus, cut grass and crushed limestone. It is lightweight, tart and fresh. It’s the perfect match for a traditional dish of anchovy involtini. You don’t get better value than this.
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