93 Points, James Suckling
“Not a fruity albarino, but rather more serious, with a prominent, briny, sea salt note, plus oyster shells and a touch of white blossoms. Chalky and more closed and linear than the Pazo de Seoane, with a focused, saline finish. Pure and gastronomic. A blend of albarinos from O Rosal and Salnés. Drink now.”
92 Points, Tim Atkin, MW
“Lagar de Cervera’s largest-volume Albarino uses grapes from 35 different parcels in O Rosal and the Salnis Valley, which provide texture and salinity, respectively, according to Julio Senz. This has attractive citrusand tutti frutti flavours, an undertone of stony minerality and a bright finish. 2024-27.”
Everyone knows Albariño, that crisp, salty white wine. But here’s the thing – it’s not some uniform place. It’s actually split into five different areas, like little pockets, and they’re spread out. I mean, you can drive two hours between some of them.
O Rosal, down south overlooks looking over at Portugal. It’s warmer, being the furthest south, and you can taste that Atlantic salt more than in some of the other spots.
Lagar de Fornelos is one of the biggest and best names in O Rosal. They were famously purchased years about by La Rioja Alta – signifying that Albarino was going to be a big push in Spain moving forward. They were looking for a killer white wine spot after they stopped making their own white Rioja, and they found it. They started building up this massive vineyard in O Rosal, and then grabbed more land up in Salnés, the OG Albariño area. It’s clear they’re trying to show off all the different sides of Rías Baixas, and honestly, they’re doing a heck of a job.