Perhaps more than any other wine region in the world, Brunello is next to impossible to give a blanket review across an entire vintage. Elevations vary from 500 to almost 2,000 feet. Exposures can be north, south or somewhere in between and for a relatively small area – there is an abundant array of soil types and sub-types. On top of that you have two distinct camps of winemakers – the traditionalists and modern.
Oversimplification aside – some wineries did produce truly historic wines. But the one thing the tirade Suckling high flying scores did do for the vintage was to drive prices through the roof for many of the top bottlings. But due to Covid, Suckling’s April trip to Tuscany was canceled and some of the usual suspects were never tasted and avoided the JS 98 stamp. That’s where we come in.
San Felice has long been the standard bearer for the modern style of Sangiovese. Starting over 40 years ago, experimental vineyards were set up to test various theories to optimize Sangiovese flavor. Winery facilities were absolutely cutting edge.
The jewel in their Sangiovese crown is Campogiovanni – twice a Wine Spectator Top 20 Wine of the Year – and widely considered one of the great Tuscan wine estates. The 2015 was poised to solidify that reputation. It’s dark and brooding with an amazing mineral cut – no doubt due to the precious argillaceous soil.
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94 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Campogiovanni is an estate run by San Felice in Chianti Classico, and its 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni is a lovely, dark and savory wine to serve with a platter of fatty charcuterie and aged tomme cheese. The bouquet is elegant and linear, showing a pretty ensemble of dark fruit, cassis and dried cherry. This vintage is particularly well balanced, with soft spice and crisp acidity competing for your attention and keeping things bright and interesting.