The first time I accompanied legendary Tuscan winemaker, Paolo di Marchi, to his family’s tiny estate in northern Piemonte, as we neared the town of Lessona, Paolo pulled to the side of the road, and led me up the side of knoll. Then, di Marchi got down on one knee and scooped soil into the palms of his hands, letting it sift through his fingers. The soil was fine and sandy, light brown with a hint of yellow in color. Then the always animated di Marchi explained why these low pH sandy soils and the ancient sea bed that lies below, set magically in the shadow of the Alps, could give birth to one the most extraordinary pink wine in the world.
Make no mistake about it, Luca di Marchi’s just released 2019 Sperino Rose is one for the record books, as complex as it is quaffable. Gorgeous aromas of fresh fruit and rose petals, unusually full in finely muscled in the mid-palate, perfectly balanced by great vibrancy and classic Lessona salinity.
93 points from Antonio Galloni’s Vinous, long the most revered subscription-based Italian wine journal in the world, the highest rating doled out to any under-$20 rose from the 2019 vintage.
The 2019 Sperino Rosa del Rosa is stunning, opening to reveal depths of ripe peach and strawberry, with hints of cumin, ginger, dried orange, and roses. It floods the palate with silky textures, tugging at the cheeks as zesty acids settle in, then soothing through sweet liquid florals and ripe fruit. The finish is long, showing a hint of fine tannins, yet not austere; instead tactile, perfectly balanced with a hint of savory spice and just begging me to take another sip. This is a blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina, which is gorgeous right now, but it may even get better with a little time in the cellar. Frankly, it was hard to put the glass down…..93 Points, Antonio Galloni’s Vinous Media