The Cognos are a fourth generation winemaking family, but it’s the current generation that has put the entire wine world on notice. A few years back, the preeminent Italian wine critic, Antonio Galloni declared, “Elvio Cogno is one of the hottest wineries in Piedmont right now. Proprietors Nadia Cogno and Valter Fissore have been on tear of late, and show no signs whatsoever of slowing down.” Huge praise, but it’s proven to be true.
With the tailwinds of the massive 2013 and 2015 vintages at its back, the winery has been racking up massive scores with demand far outpacing supply – even as the top bottlings eclipse the 150 dollar mark.
And with the 2016s, we have a recipe for something truly special. As Antonio Galloni reported, it was “an ideal growing season” perfectly intersecting with winemakers that are in their primes resulting in “a vintage full of truly spectacular, breathtaking wines that captures all the pedigree that Nebbiolo and Barolo are capable of.”
The 2016 Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova comes out of the gate like a bull. Big savory notes of baking spice, a bouquet of flowers and crushed red fruit with a bowl of macerated cherries. Succulent fruit and excellent tannic structure provide the lift for this wine which I imagine will continue to shine for the next quarter century.
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96 Points, Wine Enthusiast
Rose, woodland berry and baking spice shape the nose along with crushed mint notes on this fragrant red. The savory, polished palate boasts succulent raspberry, ripe strawberry and white pepper before taut tannins and bright acidity reveal a firm, elegant structure. Star anise lingers on the finish. Drink 2023–2036.
95 Points, James Suckling
A layered and transparent red with dark-plum, peach and cherry aromas and flavors. It’s full and wonderfully integrated with excellent tannins that melt into the wine. Needs at least four or five years to open. A beautiful Barolo for the cellar. Drink after 2023.
94 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Of the four Elvio Cogno Baroli out on the market now, this wine is the most immediate and accessible of the bunch. Production is an ample 20,000 bottles. The 2016 Barolo Cascina Nuova is a terrific wine with impeccable balance. The bouquet offers dark fruit aromas, licorice, smoke, tar and spice. These aromatic pieces slide together with precision to create an intriguing and multifaceted puzzle. It shows good fruit weight and concentration, reinforced by firm tannins, freshness and a silky mouthfeel. This is a terrific go-to Barolo from a classic vintage. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then ages for two years in botte grande made with Slavonian oak.
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