I’ve been saying for a few years now, that there haven’t been many vintages in the past 30+ years that are as stashable as the 2017 vintage in Burgundy. For real collectors, this has been one of the most consistent and rewarding wells from which to draw. Of course by now, more than five years after they have been released, there are hardly any left to scoop. But luckily, I know a guy in Burgundy who makes outstanding old-vine Pinot Noir and loves to release his wines late. Lucky for all of us!
Whether you are a collector stocking for the long haul or a fan of knocked-out, downright delicious Pinot Noir, stock up on 2017s. The market knows, in what was already a short vintage in terms of yield, the best restaurants in the world and savviest of consumers have been gobbling up Burgundy at a rate that I have not seen since other now-legendary vintages, 2010, 2002, 1999 and 1990.
Philippe Rossignol’s wines are decidedly old-school. Firm upon opening, they blossom with air, revealing layer after layer of complexity, best discovered spending a few days with a bottle. In 2017, the conditions were perfect for classic style Burgundy with temperatures staying low and the weather staying dry enough for a slow, natural and gorgeous ripening season. By the time the fruit came in from vine, the press was already singing its praises. But even just a few years removed from that highly anticipated release, the quality I’ve found in the 2017 vintage remains absolutely off the charts.
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. Philippe is a strong believer in whole cluster fermentation; a traditional practice only possible with the ripest of bunches. Stem inclusion helps create more expressive wines, with jump-out-of-the-glass aromatics, and more depth, complexity, and longevity. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. Get as many as you can. Seriously.
Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review.
This one comes from very old vines in eight different lieux-dits, with the largest portion coming from Le Fourneau. Harvest is all by hand, and this wine sees 18 months in barrels with only 10% new oak. Clement (rightfully) believes that keeping the oak primarily neutral here brings out the most authentic and intense expression of his Pinot Noirs. Take a sip or two of this and you will know exactly what I mean.
In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
Philippe makes this wine from vines that are all 60+ years in age from a steep site at Gevry’s northwestern-most limit at the top of a hill that neighbors 1er cru vineyards Les Champeaux and Combe aux Moines. Here, just like in the neighboring 1er cru vineyards, the soil is extremely stony clay-limestone, imparting so much character to the wine, it’s hard to ignore. It’s just incredible how fresh the nose is, even after all this time in the bottle. It’s so inviting and silky smooth with some spicy notes and truly impeccable balance.