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Domaine Philippe Rossignol Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2017


I’ve been saying for a few years now, that there haven’t been many vintages in the past 30+ years that are as stashable as the 2017 vintage in Burgundy. For real collectors, this has been one of the most consistent and rewarding wells from which to draw. Of course by now, more than five years after they have been released, there are hardly any left to scoop. But luckily, I know a guy in Burgundy who makes outstanding old-vine Pinot Noir and loves to release his wines late. Lucky for all of us!

Whether you are a collector stocking for the long haul or a fan of knocked-out, downright delicious Pinot Noir, stock up on 2017s. The market knows, in what was already a short vintage in terms of yield, the best restaurants in the world and savviest of consumers have been gobbling up Burgundy at a rate that I have not seen since other now-legendary vintages, 2010, 2002, 1999 and 1990.

Philippe Rossignol’s wines are decidedly old-school. Firm upon opening, they blossom with air, revealing layer after layer of complexity, best discovered spending a few days with a bottle. In 2017, the conditions were perfect for classic style Burgundy with temperatures staying low and the weather staying dry enough for a slow, natural and gorgeous ripening season. By the time the fruit came in from vine, the press was already singing its praises. But even just a few years removed from that highly anticipated release, the quality I’ve found in the 2017 vintage remains absolutely off the charts.

The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. Philippe is a strong believer in whole cluster fermentation; a traditional practice only possible with the ripest of bunches. Stem inclusion helps create more expressive wines, with jump-out-of-the-glass aromatics, and more depth, complexity, and longevity. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. Get as many as you can. Seriously.

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