In 2000, Bibi Graetz burst onto the Super Tuscan scene almost out of nowhere. Sitting on a goldmine – now 85 year-old Sangiovese ‘gardens’ surrounding his home. He brought on (now rockstar) winemaker – Antinori Antonini.
The two set out to create the very best expression of these historic vineyards as they possibly could. The bottling would be called Testamatta and would be 100% garden Sangiovese – which was not allowed by the powers that be.
Consistently outperforming the biggest names in Tuscany at a relatively modest price point, the pundits are just starting to catch up. But Mr. Suckling went a step further and called Testamatta “one of my 12 Best Collectible Wines of Tuscany”. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate called it, “one of the most original and off-the-radar expressions of Sangiovese you will ever taste”.
The 2016 may be his best yet. James Suckling called the wine, “very beautiful”, “gorgeous” and “well-polished”… all in the same review. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate wrote nothing short of an essay in their review of the wine describing in length its “impeccable harmony, and “chiseled intensity.” Truly something special, this baby once again outpointing Tuscan greats Tignorello and Sassicaia
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98 Points, James Suckling
A very beautiful and thoughtful Testamatta with aromas of earth, terra cotta, black tea, and lavender. Full-bodied, very layered and extremely polished with superb, soft tannins. Racy and very long. Muscular and formed but very, very balanced. Gorgeous richness and depth. Shows balance and wonder.
96 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
The 2016 Testamatta represents a blend of fruit from old vines spread across the various vineyard holdings farmed by Bibi Graetz in both the Siena and Firenze provinces of Tuscany. These holdings include plots in Vincigliata (home base to Bibi Graetz and his family just outside of Florence), Lamole, Londa, Montefili and Siena. Many of the vines used here are 80 years old or more, and each site represents a cultural and enological patrimony that was specifically selected for its individual character or uniqueness. There is an unescapable metaphor in the many primary colors that blend or bleed into each other to form a single piece of art that is depicted on the front label of this handsome bottle. Testamatta reaches impeccable harmony in similar fashion. I tasted this wine on three separate occasions and was blown away each time. There is a seductively wild side to the wine that comes forth with chiseled intensity. Dark fruit, spice, tar, licorice and toasted spice make for a beautifully elegant bouquet. The mouthfeel remains mid-weight in approach, with polished tannins and a tightly knit texture that should relax and grow in volume as the wine evolves in the bottle.