Domaine de Beaurenard has been a consistent critical darling over many, many years in the business like when they graced the Thanksgiving cover of Wine Spectator the year before last. The importer has been after me for years to ‘work’ more with their wines as he puts it.
And yes – their red CDPs often grab rave reviews, but it’s their full-throttled whites that I’ve always been most interested in – whites that set the standard for much of the region. As Jeb Dunnuck said, “This estate consistently makes one of the most classic, age worthy whites in the appellation…”
In that same Wine Spectator issue – three of the top ten white Chateauneufs of the year went to Beaurenard. So it’s hard to go wrong, but they will set you back close to a hundred bucks.
I was intrigued when my annual box of sample bottles arrived last week – with a surprise entry. Mixed in with the 94-point, $95 white CDPs was a Cotes du Rhone that not only held its own but given the price – was the hand’s down winner.
So I went to the internet to find out more. Absolutely nothing. No expert reviews. Not for sale anywhere. Not even listed on the Beaurenard site itself. My best guess is that this was a vanity project for the Coulon brothers, who if the soil was 12 feet to the left 400 years ago, we’d be paying those three figures.
Despite the parade of consistent 93+ ratings, I’m going with the unpublished, unfindable, completely hidden gem for our first Beaurenard offering. It’s all in the sourcing. The Biotiful Fox Blanc delivers an aromatic fireworks show, showing off high tones of quince, lime and honeysuckle, while making simply prepared fish a Michelin 3 star experience.