Ampeau Savigny les Beaune Lavieres 2005

The Ampeau estate in Meursault is one of the most remarkable in Burgundy. They tend their vineyards like gardens, with outrageous leaf canopies that tower over their neighbors.

Most of the village moved to modern tractors decades ago but in 2002, the Ampeaus were still using their ancient (70-year old) tractor that allowed the leaf canopy to remain high in order to achieve earlier ripening and therefore, great acidity, crucial for ensuring wines that have great aging potential.

What’s most remarkable about the Ampeau wines is their ability to age effortlessly over the course of decades while maintaining incredible aromatic complexity, purity of fruit, and just crackling tension. Stored in what is probably the coldest cellar I’ve ever been in, the wines remain in suspended animation, only beginning to show themselves off after 45 minutes in a decanter. The last glass is almost always the best one.