Stephan Steinmetz Elbling Trocken 2022

Stephen Steinmetz biodynamically farms this tiny estate in the Obermosel, east of Frankfurt, very close to the border with Luxembourg. His old vines of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the same vein of rock found in Sancerre, Chablis and Champagne.

The youngest of four children, he took over the family estate in 1992, at the age of 23, and has not looked back ever since. The six hectares of vineyards are farmed biodynamically and production has increased slightly in each vintage under his careful watch.

His wines are super fruity, yet crisp and dry. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.