95 Points, Decanter
The family property of Paolo De Marchi is now run by his son Luca, with 7.7 ha of vineyards at 290m-350m on mineral-rich, ancient volcanic soils. Fruit for this 80% Nebbiolo, 15% Vespolina, 5% Croatina blend came from plots in Lessona in the Orolungo region and Brusnengo in the Bramaterra DOC. Refined aromas of cherries, floral and herbal notes, and sweet spices. Subtle and sophisticated on the palate but with exceptional concentration of fruit. Great purity and a wonderful persistent finish. A nice, simple red-fruit palate with good, tense acidity and fresh, crunchy tannins. Inviting and seductive. Hints of spice and licorice, with a sweet finish. A highly concentrated and serious wine.
Winemaking is a tradition that gets carefully passed from generation to generation. In the case of Proprietà Sperino, a couple of those generations were skipped but Paolo and Luca de Marchi are now the stewards of a 200 year old tradition and are making some of the most exciting wine in the world. Their ancestor, Dr Felice Sperino, stopped making wine in 1904 in Lessona, in the very shadow of the Alps, an hour and half northwest of Milano.
In the 18th and 19th century, this area of northern Piemonte was the very center of fine wine in Italy. In the fine, silty, yellow sand of Lessona, Felice and his ancestors grew and made world-class Nebbiolo-based wines, the famed grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. But right around the turn of the 20th century, people started to abandon the vineyards of northern Piemonte.
There were many reasons, two World Wars, mass migration of people, the industrial resurgence in and around Milan…for a poor farmer, it became silly to grow grapes in an Alpine climate when you could earn double working for Fiat! So, in 1904, Sperino made its last vintage of wine and the world slowly forgot about Lessona. That is until 2004 when Paolo and Luca reopened Felice’s estate and reintroduced the world to the seductive wines of Lessona. Since then – this region has enjoyed their greatest success to date!