Domaine Robert Ampeau Volnay Santenots 1er Cru 2001

Average Price Online: $158/btl
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For over five years, not a single bottle from some of the coldest and deepest cellars in Burgundy was shipped stateside when Michael Ampeau suffered a stroke. Micheal progressed slowly, but surely. Finally, in late 2018, he called to tell us that he could finally prepare and ship again, just a little bit at a time, and no more than 3 appellations/vintages per order.

I traveled to Burgundy in January of 2019 with two others. We spent two days tasting dozens of perfectly aged Meursaults, Pulignys, Volnays, Savignys and Pommards, beginning in 1976 (!), in the cellar 26 stone steps beneath the family’s home. The wines at Ampeau are in a kind of suspended animation, always seeming to be 20 years younger than what the label reads. After the tasting, I took the remainder of each wine back ton my room at Le Montrachet, just up the road in Puligny. Then I continued my evaluation. In the end, I settled on a few selections, the one of which I am happy to offer today.

The Ampeau estate in Meursault is one of the most remarkable in Burgundy. They tend their vineyards like gardens, with outrageous leaf canopies that look more like biodynamic-Francois Barmes vines than the typical, short Meursault vines, cropped short to fit the modern tractor. The Ampeaus still use their tractor from the 50’s…that leaf canopy allows the Ampeaus to get earlier ripening, always with great acidity, crucial for ensuring wines that have great ageing potential. Their work in the cellar is minimal, no battonage, short time in barrel, early bottling…then those bottles join the other half a million in that cold, dark cellar…

The breathtaking 2001 Volnay Santenots 1er cru is still at the beginning of its evolution. The color is ruby red, with a marvelous bouquet of dark fruits laced with baking spices and a hint of mint. The earth-tinged fruit is light on its feet, dancing across the palate, very fresh and quite long. We drank this over a few hours; its development in the glass was astounding. This is a real Burgundian classic, a rarity that is an absolute pleasure to drink. There are so many layers to this wine, be sure to take your time with it.