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Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Porrets 2017

$95.00

John Gilman from a View from the Cellar on Henri Gouge’s 2017 red Burgs:

The Gouges family has once again squeezed out every ounce of potential inherent in the vintage of 2017 and this is another absolutely stellar range of wines from the domaine this year…..The 2017 vintage is clearly a great vintage for the Gouges family and these wines will make cellar treasures for those adroit enough to search out some bottles and let them lie in the cellar for enough time for them to truly start to blossom. “

Yes, I couldn’t agree more, the 2017s from at Domaine Henri Gouges are downright classics. 

It’s no surprise either as I first discovered Gouges along with the world of fine dining and Saturday night burgundies at Jean Georges in the mid ‘90s. The economy was flying at the time and there was no place in the city where the truly epic, standard-bearing wines of the world flew off the list with more regularity. For Jean-Georges and his wine team, the wines of Domaine Henri Gouges were held in similar esteem with the superstars of the wine world, DRC, Latour, Dom, you name it. For red Burgundy, and specifically, Nuits-Saint Georges, nothing sold quite like the pristinely cellared, wildly complex wines of Henri Gouges

Many years later, not much has changed in terms of the demand and respect of Domaine Gouges for Burgundy collectors and critics alike. If anything, the wines are better. Current proprietor and winemaker, Grégory Gouges, Henri’s great-great grandson, has amazingly raised the bar, farming organically, reducing yields, and employing a more rigorous selection of grapes. The resulting wines are finer and more supple than I remember from my Jean-Georges days, yet maintain the length and sheer energy that make them long-haul Burgundies, delicious this Saturday night and every other for next two decades.

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Expert Reviews

94 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Des Porrets ratchets up the intensity noticeably yet shares a similar sunny, rounded, almost sexy style. Wonderful ripe strawberries and blueberry fruit as well as ample notes of violets, flowers, lavender, and spicy wood all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, an expansive, layered mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and bright yet integrated acidity. This is a beautifully complex, balanced Clos Des Porrets that has plenty of upfront charm and appeal, yet the balance and class to evolve for 15-20 years or more. As I wrote last year, the style at this estate has change dramatically over the past handful of years and the wines today are more balanced, charming, and approachable, and I suspect will age even better than wines of the past.

94 Points, John Gilman (View From the Cellar)
These last three premier crus in the Gouges cellars were still in barrel and showing marvelously. The 2017 Clos des Porrets is going to be a classic example of this fine terroir, with the bouquet offering up scents of roasted red and black cherries, a touch of new leather, woodsmoke, a very complex base of soil, grilled venison. Bitter chocolate, a hint of chicory and a deft framing of vanillin oak. This is by far the most structured and masculine premier cru in the cellar, up to this point. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite pure on the attack, with a very solid core of fruit, a proper sense of youthful reserve, ripe tannins and a very long, very well-balanced and soil-driven finish. This is excellent and will need fully a decade (or perhaps a bit longer) to blossom and start to stir. It is a dynamite Nuits in the making! 2027- 2075

94 Points, Decanter
This hails from a mid-slope premier cru on the south side of Nuits and mixes clay and limestone soils within the Gouges’ 3.7ha monopole. It’s an intense, aromatic and comparatively early-drinking style with some chalky freshness, medium-weight tannins and a hint of volatility.

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