Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$34.00
In the late Fall of 1984, as the dollar hit all-time highs against the French Franc, a young American importer booked two R/T tickets to Paris Orly. Believing it was now or never, he then did one better, and reserved a table for two at Taillevent, Jean-Claude Vrinat’s 3-star restaurant at ADDRESS.
As the maitre d’hotel led the importer to his table, the 29 year-old importer felt like an imposter on a Hollywood set. The Taillevent clientele was dressed in Armani and Zegna, while he and his friend were clad in faded sports coats with frayed lapels and slacks that still bore the creases from the 7-hour flight the night before.
The Taillevent Carte des Vins was world renown, a thick tome, replete with an exhaustive selection of classified growth Bordeaux, including pages and pages of back vintages of First Growth Chateaux Lafite, Mouton, Haut Brion and Latour. But as had always been the case since since the importer first visited Burgundy in the summer of 1979, he passed over the Bordeaux and went to white Burgundy section of the wine list — dozens of pages filled with carefully cellared bottles from the greatest estates in the Cote de Beaune.
His eyes were like saucers as he scoured back vintages from Leflaive, Lafon, Roulot, Ampeau, Niellon, Sauzet and Ramonet. But it wouldn’t be long before he realized that even with the dollar at 9.64 to the French Franc, his palate was far more adventurous than his bank account.
The sommelier approached our table, clad in classic black on white, his silver tastevin tasting cup draped around his neck. He smiled politely, eyed our frayed lapels and intuited our predicament.
“You appear to be a white Burgundy connoisseur. May I suggest something unusual for you to try?”
“Please.”
“Consider the 1978 Macon-Vire from Andre Bonhomme. It’s the only Chardonnay from the Maconais at Taiillevent, and we held the wine in our cellar for five years before putting it on the list. It’s magnificent.” Then he stopped, smiled. And winked! “Honestly, it’s like village Meursault at one-third the price… only BETTER!”
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It’s an electric white Burgundy, with a limestone-laced aromatic profile of green apple, pear and hazelnut. Refined and high-toned, the pure, delicious fruit that is a hallmark of this terrific vintage, finishes long and fresh, with a mile-long mineral streak.
It’s hard to beat a great value white wine and this one is a at least a cut above the rest. One prominant industry insider called the 2022 edition, “the best white wine by any within $20/cs of this price.” It’s super crisp with a great mineral streak, and was carefully picked by hand when the temperature is coolest and is kept cool all the way into the press. From there, the effect of the mineral soil takes over, providing great finesse and freshness in every bottle. This white blend has great backbone and a lot of juicy fruit coming through behind aromas of flowers and stone fruits. At this price, it’s a no brainer.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
One of the best places to look for great Tuesday nighters are the sandy, limestone-laden hills of Asti. And within Asti, there is no white wine calling card that holds a candle to Moscato. Here it is king. Gianni Doglia naturally farms a tiny estate in the picturesque hamlet of Castagnole Lanze. His Moscato is the product of old vines, vinfied without oak to preserve its incredible fruit. This is serious, high-quality and hand-harvested Moscat, that oozes with sweet tropical fruits and a hint of minerality that stays on your tongue with each sip. This is also the perfect wine for anyone searching for a low alcohol option as well.
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