Andre Bonhomme’s white Burgundies always impress but the 2019 Vire Clessé is on a whole new level. Part of it is the vintage, I’m sure. As Jancis Robinson pointed out during her recent trip to Burgundy to taste all the top Meursault and the surrounding areas:
“I lost count of the delicious 2019s carrying the lowly Bourgogne appellation that I tasted, and these seemed so much better value than the grands crus that demand three- or even four-figure sums per bottle and many a long year of ageing.”
The weather took care of some of the hard work – with draught-conditions forcing universally smaller grapes, thereby concentrating flavors. But unlike 2020, where some vines were under stress, the 2019s just seemed to plow ahead through the heat, making wines of immense character and striking acids.
The result is a pretty special and rare gift. The 2019s will be one of the great vintages, but few wines if any will go through an ugly period – requiring extended aging. These wines are delicious and ready to drink right away and for the next several years.
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