Bodegas Frontonio Garnacha Microcosimo 2023

93 Points, Parker’s Wine Advocate

The fruit here comes from 60+ year-old bush vines growing in slate and clay soils at a remarkable 650-700 meters elevation. These high-altitude, north-facing vineyards provide the perfect balance of ripeness and freshness – something that’s immediately apparent in the glass.

Everything done here is thoughtful: fermentation with indigenous yeasts and 20-25% whole clusters foot-trodden in cement tanks, 12 months aging in underground cement. The result is a wine of stunning purity and energy. Parker’s Wine Advocate awarded it 93 points, noting its “complexity and depth” along with its “varietal and juicy” character, “fine tannins and dry finish.” What’s particularly remarkable is the balance – at just 12.5% alcohol with bright acidity, this is the antithesis of the overly ripe, jammy style that once defined Spanish reds.

Original price was: $28.00.Current price is: $22.00.

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93 Points, Parker’s Wine Advocate
The 2023 Microcósmico Garnacha was produced with grapes from older vines grown on slopes with slate soils at 650 to 700 meters in altitude in the village of Jarque in the IGP Valdejalón. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and 20% to 25% whole clusters that were foot trodden, and it matured in underground concrete vats for seven months. It has a little more complexity and depth than the Botijo Rojo and is varietal and juicy, with fine tannins and a dry finish. It has only 12.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.21 and 5.9 grams of acidity.


Frontonio has 25-plus hectares of certified organic vineyards, and from 2022 onward, all the wines are certified organic; and they are working toward their biodynamic certification (hopefully for 2024). The Botijo and Microcósmico range come from certified organic grapes from the family of Mario López, one of the members of Frontonio. They have been fine-tuning their harvest dates and making a stricter selection of their grapes to gain precision, and the wines are a little more austere.

tasted 2022s and some 2023s (plus one 2021, as the top white is still maturing in bottle and is sold one year later), two warm and dry years but with rains during the harvest. But if you managed those years well, they produced balanced and fresher wines that seem to transcend the vintages, especially in the case of the old vines, as the younger ones suffered after two years of heat and drought. The last few years have seen long harvests, with many starts and stops because of these rains.

Bodegas Frontonio is the personal project of young gun Fernando Mora MW, hailing from the Valdejalón appellation (technically an IGP, not a DO) of Aragón. These scintillating wines are some of the very best being made today east of Rioja and west of Conca, and they’re already garnering effusive praise from both Luis Gutiérrez and Jancis Robinson. If you love Grenache, you’re in luck – this is the Spanish birthplace of Garnacha.

Best of all, prices are very fair for the high quality—and the quality begins in the vineyard: Mora and his team own fifty hectares of beautiful old bush vines in rocky clay-limestone selected for high altitude and north-facing exposition to emphasize freshness. The wines are incredible. I can’t recommend them enough!

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