Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$28.00 $22.00
The last several months have sent shock waves through the drinks industry. Coke just announced that they’re ending production of over 200 brands – almost half the portfolio. Turns out over half of their sales came from big stadium events and sports.
Pretty much the same in the wine industry as restaurants worldwide have sidestepped targeted allocations that have been in place some times for decades. The Nicholas faithful have benefited. Sylvain Baily Sancerre from Balthazar, Bisci Verdicchio from French Laundry, Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio from Per Se, and four times my normal allocation of Domaine LeFlaive.
But apart from a Napa Cab or two headed for a steakhouse, I had very little to show for red wines earmarked for some of NYC’s top spots. But I can emphatically say, that changes today.
In the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara, a silent revolution has been taking place just to the east in Happy Canyon, where Pete Stolpman, Dan Dierberg, and Philippe Melka at Crown Point have been heads down quietly making some of the best under the radar big red wines in all of California from this warm, sun exposed micro climate.
That’s where today’s Cab, Ground Effect comes from– a tiny producer from Happy Canyon who first hit it big when NYC giants Gramercy Tavern and Soho House selected their Santa Barbara Cabernet for their wine lists.
From there, it’s only been up. Aided by its juicy placements, it ended up in the hands of Eric Asimov at the New York Times who gushed about it, including it in his “20 under $20 wines to enjoy on weeknights”. That certainly didn’t help make this small production Cab become any easier to get.. or any cheaper.
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Winemaker Kian Tavakoli (Opus One, Clos du Val) continues to excel even while others struggle. In 2017, he still managed to deliver a beautiful and opulent Napa Valley Cabernet that’s both dark and juicy. The wine hails from both Coombsville and Rutherford, giving it distinct characteristics and a lot of drive. Deep ruby to the rim with excellent concentration, notes of Bing cherries, raspberry pie and hints of vanilla. On the palate, big wonderfully jammy fruit with young but impressive tannins and great length. The finish leaves notes of black cherry, and baked blueberry pie. Fantastic Napa value.
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck – 95 Points, Lisa Perotti-Brown
The oft 100-point winemaker, Jayson Woodbridge had this to say when tasting his 2021 ‘Stargazing’ Sonoma Pinot: “The wine is vibrant and complex with subtle dark fruits and berries, grandmother’s cherry pie, minerals, and a slight touch of rain-soaked earth, intertwined with a balance and very pleasing easy-going luxury. Should have been priced higher but what the hell.” I have no doubt this clerical error will be addressed in the vintages moving forward. But for now, this is a cult Pinot for under $100/bottle.
It’s always nice to be in good standing with one of the most beloved wine brands in America! These won’t last long! This is an opulent, powerful dark-fruited Cabernet with tightly woven tannins, that is just raring and ready to go. Textbook, full-bodied, revved up and ready to go, this new Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet is the definition of a crowd pleaser.
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