Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$19.50
Sometimes referred to as “The Barolo of the South”, Aglianico was called the third of “three great Italian grapes along with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo by Vinous’ Ian D’Agata. Last year, I gave you what is undoubtedly the absolute best baseline Aglianico made anywhere. But this year’s offer isn’t for the baby brother anymore– it’s for the big boy, the Irpinia IGT. Still Aglianico, still Cotarella, but a much bigger production in a more sacred area.
The Irpinia zone is a much higher elevation than its baby bro and with a different soil composition. The region was first made famous by Antonio Mastroberardino who discovered this was the perfect spot for indeginous varietals in Southern Italy with ideal vine-growing environment and consequent high-quality grapes. Thanks to a perfect combination of high altitude slopes, volcanic and lime/clay soils, long growing seasons and diurnal temperature variations, Mastroberardino discovered the winemaking mecca.
Last year’s Aglianico was one of a few from Cotarella that ended up on James Suckling’s “$15 wines that Taste like $50” list. But if that was a $15/wine that tastes like $50, today’s is a $20 wine that tastes like $100 bucks.
The 2018 Donnachiara Aglianico is a beauty. A more serious, complex Aglianico than the baseline, the Irpinia sees 6 months of oak, mainly new– giving it a deeper, more sophisticated feel. It’s the Irpinia bottling that has previously cracked Wine Spectator’s ‘Top 100 Wines of the Year’ and whose current vintage comes wrapped in a juicy 93-point score from James Suckling. Suckling called it “decadent, rich, layered and velvety” before capping his review with a “so delicious now”.
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93 Points, James Suckling
A red with blackberry, meat, black pepper, clove, blueberry and ash. Oyster shell, too. It’s full-bodied with lots of round tannins and a juicy, velvety finish. Decadent and rich. So delicious now. Layered. Soft and rich. Drink now.
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95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck – 95 Points, Lisa Perotti-Brown
The oft 100-point winemaker, Jayson Woodbridge had this to say when tasting his 2021 ‘Stargazing’ Sonoma Pinot: “The wine is vibrant and complex with subtle dark fruits and berries, grandmother’s cherry pie, minerals, and a slight touch of rain-soaked earth, intertwined with a balance and very pleasing easy-going luxury. Should have been priced higher but what the hell.” I have no doubt this clerical error will be addressed in the vintages moving forward. But for now, this is a cult Pinot for under $100/bottle.
The newly released Fiancetto Howell Mt. Cabernet is a dream – a gorgeous, elegant dark-fruited Cabernet Sauvignon that is it picks up time in the glass, unfurls its full signature of cedar laced cassis nose and mid palate of chocolate-covered cherries and savory spices. Only four palates of this (224 cases) were made off a gorgeous, sprawling high elevation spot 1500 feet above sea level. It’s full and plush and finishes fresh and oh so long. The price is crazy for Howell Mountain Cabernet but that’s what Ry Richards and Fiancetto is all about.
With seemingly infinite access to some of the absolute very best vineyards in the most choice AVAs in the valley, the Wagner’s set out to make Quilt– a Cabernet blend from a patchwork of the top sites in Napa (Oakville, St Helena, Atlas Peak, Coombsville, Calistoga, and Howell Mountain.) The brand new 2021 edition is a beauty – deeply concentrated, rich and a truly show stopping Cabernet. It’s a dark, hedonistic blend that combines elegance with power and pairs the two together effortlessly.
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
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