The Ampeau estate in Meursault is one of the most remarkable in Burgundy. They tend their vineyards like gardens, with outrageous leaf canopies that tower over their neighbors.
Most of the village moved to modern tractors decades ago but in 2002, the Ampeaus were still using their ancient (70-year old) tractor that allowed the leaf canopy to remain high in order to achieve earlier ripening and therefore, great acidity, crucial for ensuring wines that have great aging potential.
They say that vintages in Burgundy are made in the last few weeks before harvest and never was that more true than in 2002. A growing season that seemed fine ( a warm June followed by drought) suddenly cooled for the final three weeks bringing in nearly perfect fruit and producing some of the best wines in over 20 years.
Ampeaus 2002s are particularly show stopping and are just coming into their own after 21 years of gentle slumber.