Working at a comparatively artisinal scale, Stefano Perrone has championed ideas foreign to most of the region’s large producers. He works with many north-facing sites (for freshness), limits his yields, and makes a strict grape selection. Just as important is the aesthetic he brings to bear—seeking to make wines of deftness and levity; never big or “thick” Moscatos.
Because of its delicacy and its dependence on perfect balance, great Moscato is hard to make, and only a few producers have mastered the craft. This isn’t cheaply made, run-of-the-mill Moscato – no. For Stefano, this is art. Perhaps that is Stefano Perrone is quickly establishing himself as the reference-point producer.
With vines planted in 1932, his Mongovone vineyard gives him the material to produce something truly special. Stefano makes Barbera that captures the ethereal freshness for which the Asti zone is noted. But at the same time that he was branching out into Barbera, Stefano started to make his first vintages of Bigaro—a softly sweet, gently effervescent salmon-colored sparkler made from Brachetto and Moscato.
This has become his new calling card, and a darling amongst dessert wine fans, Rose fans, sparkling fans, and just lovers of really interesting wines.
92 Pts, Antonio Galloni, Vinous (2021 vtg. review for context)
The 2021 Rosé Bigarò, 50% Moscato Bianco, 50% Brachetto, is one of the most distinctive sweet wines in all of Italy. Exotic floral and spice accents soar out of the glass. Rose petal, mint, sage, dried herbs and hard candy play off bright acids and an overall feeling of crystalline energy. This is a terrific showing.
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