Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$19.50
Sometimes referred to as “The Barolo of the South”, Aglianico was called the third of “three great Italian grapes along with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo by Vinous’ Ian D’Agata. Last year, I gave you what is undoubtedly the absolute best baseline Aglianico made anywhere. But this year’s offer isn’t for the baby brother anymore– it’s for the big boy, the Irpinia IGT. Still Aglianico, still Cotarella, but a much bigger production in a more sacred area.
The Irpinia zone is a much higher elevation than its baby bro and with a different soil composition. The region was first made famous by Antonio Mastroberardino who discovered this was the perfect spot for indeginous varietals in Southern Italy with ideal vine-growing environment and consequent high-quality grapes. Thanks to a perfect combination of high altitude slopes, volcanic and lime/clay soils, long growing seasons and diurnal temperature variations, Mastroberardino discovered the winemaking mecca.
Last year’s Aglianico was one of a few from Cotarella that ended up on James Suckling’s “$15 wines that Taste like $50” list. But if that was a $15/wine that tastes like $50, today’s is a $20 wine that tastes like $100 bucks.
The 2018 Donnachiara Aglianico is a beauty. A more serious, complex Aglianico than the baseline, the Irpinia sees 6 months of oak, mainly new– giving it a deeper, more sophisticated feel. It’s the Irpinia bottling that has previously cracked Wine Spectator’s ‘Top 100 Wines of the Year’ and whose current vintage comes wrapped in a juicy 93-point score from James Suckling. Suckling called it “decadent, rich, layered and velvety” before capping his review with a “so delicious now”.
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93 Points, James Suckling
A red with blackberry, meat, black pepper, clove, blueberry and ash. Oyster shell, too. It’s full-bodied with lots of round tannins and a juicy, velvety finish. Decadent and rich. So delicious now. Layered. Soft and rich. Drink now.
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In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
Winemaker Kian Tavakoli (Opus One, Clos du Val) continues to excel even while others struggle. In 2017, he still managed to deliver a beautiful and opulent Napa Valley Cabernet that’s both dark and juicy. The wine hails from both Coombsville and Rutherford, giving it distinct characteristics and a lot of drive. Deep ruby to the rim with excellent concentration, notes of Bing cherries, raspberry pie and hints of vanilla. On the palate, big wonderfully jammy fruit with young but impressive tannins and great length. The finish leaves notes of black cherry, and baked blueberry pie. Fantastic Napa value.
The 2021 Napa Valley East side Cuvee is an instant classic. From the first whiff to the moment it hits the lips, its clear that this is a fabulously concentrated, serious wine: black in color, and featuring aromas of cassis, cedar and chocolate-tinged purple fruit. The mouthfeel is plush and voluptuous with a firm, solid finish that speaks to its potential for considerable aging.
At J Vineyards, Nicole is nothing short of a magician, making 30 different skus or more each vintage between her Pinots, Chardonnays, and Sparkling wines. For the vineyard’s flagship Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, up to 100 individual small lots are combined to make this great wine. Somehow, the blend is effortless–a quintessential RRV Pinot that has those soaring aromatics, bright red fruits, clove, and nutmeg spice with perfect balance.
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