Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$25.00 $21.00
Year in and year out, one of my favorite Sauvignon Blancs in the world is Vincent Ricard’s inimitable Trois Chenes. I love a maverick so if you remember the story, I apologize but it’s too good not to hit the highlights for our newer readers.
Vincent’s father – like all the grape farmers of the small village of Thésée-La-Romaine, did as they always had done – tried to produce as much fruit as humanly possible in the vineyard to haul down to the village cooperative and sell by the ton – quality by damned.
Young Vincent – protegé to the Silex-style of Dagueneau – who had just returned to the family’s estate had another plan all together. He would work all summer long, tending the vines by hand, aggressively trimming the vines, leaving profits to spoil on the ground. Each day the old men of the village would pull up chairs and watch him work – amused by all his hard work.
But the fun and games were all over once the wine bottled under the family name and finally released. It was sublime, completely out of this world – easily competing with the wines of Sancerre four to five times the price. So the old men sprang to action and they sued Vincent for making wine ‘too good’ or out of type for the region – knowing there was no way they could possibly compete.
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The Zenato family has built up quite the reputation for delivering exceptional value with their red and whites in Veneto. Their Pinot Grigio is a particularly great value, punching way above its weight class. Delicately scented and soft on the palate, it offers classic citrus and floral notes in a balanced elegant style. It’s smooth and refreshing with a long, pleasant finish. Great with food.
Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
Gold Medal (Best in Show), 2023 Mundus Vini International Tasting
The area has also been isolated from the rest of Spain for generations, which has kept the wine prices far lower than wines of this quality would be anywhere else in the world. That’s why, despite having the Torres family name on the bottle and the consistent huge press (including the Gold Medal & Best in Show at the 2023 Mundus Vini International Wine Awards in Germany), these wines can still be scooped up for under $20/bottle. It’s like the Sancerre pricing of yesteryear.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
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