Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$22.00
Domaine de Beaurenard has been a consistent critical darling over many, many years in the business like when they graced the Thanksgiving cover of Wine Spectator the year before last. The importer has been after me for years to ‘work’ more with their wines as he puts it.
And yes – their red CDPs often grab rave reviews, but it’s their full-throttled whites that I’ve always been most interested in – whites that set the standard for much of the region. As Jeb Dunnuck said, “This estate consistently makes one of the most classic, age worthy whites in the appellation…”
In that same Wine Spectator issue – three of the top ten white Chateauneufs of the year went to Beaurenard. So it’s hard to go wrong, but they will set you back close to a hundred bucks.
I was intrigued when my annual box of sample bottles arrived last week – with a surprise entry. Mixed in with the 94-point, $95 white CDPs was a Cotes du Rhone that not only held its own but given the price – was the hand’s down winner.
So I went to the internet to find out more. Absolutely nothing. No expert reviews. Not for sale anywhere. Not even listed on the Beaurenard site itself. My best guess is that this was a vanity project for the Coulon brothers, who if the soil was 12 feet to the left 400 years ago, we’d be paying those three figures.
Despite the parade of consistent 93+ ratings, I’m going with the unpublished, unfindable, completely hidden gem for our first Beaurenard offering. It’s all in the sourcing. The Biotiful Fox Blanc delivers an aromatic fireworks show, showing off high tones of quince, lime and honeysuckle, while making simply prepared fish a Michelin 3 star experience.
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This is truly of Sancerre’s greatest wines. It’s an incredible effort in a fantastic vintage for Sancerre in general, but even more so for my friend Dominique Roger. His single parcel ‘La Jouline’ is considered the Grand Cru vineyard of Bue. It’s crafted from 60-year old vines and given an extra year in bottle, adding incredible layers and complexity in the process. Tiny yields followed by partial barrel fermentation creates a wine with complex aromatics, explosive flavors, and a mineral-laced finish that makes it both incredible at the table with rich cuisine or a great candidate for short term aging.
The 2016 vintage in Napa was nearly perfect for winemaker Kian Tavakoli (Opus One, Clos du Val). With ideal weather all throughout harvest, he crafted the Faustini Money Road Chardonnay off the famous vineyard located in the coveted Oakville AVA. The picturesque vineyard off Oakville Crossroad is platinum rated, known for its ideal combination of soil & climate and the big A list names that routinely source fruit. Kian’s Money Road Chard is still youthful despite having a few years of age, probably as a result of its 18 months of slumber in 1/4 new Oak.
Just in time, we got back Vincent Ricard’s all-time great white wine bargain. This is a crisp, clean and flat out delicious Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The protege to the Silex-style of Dagueneau – who over the last 15 years has produced flawless and beloved white wines that at last count were on the wine lists of over 36 Michelin-starred restaurants. This is a great house white and one that can surely hold its own with just about everything on the table.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
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