Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$22.00
Domaine de Beaurenard has been a consistent critical darling over many, many years in the business like when they graced the Thanksgiving cover of Wine Spectator the year before last. The importer has been after me for years to ‘work’ more with their wines as he puts it.
And yes – their red CDPs often grab rave reviews, but it’s their full-throttled whites that I’ve always been most interested in – whites that set the standard for much of the region. As Jeb Dunnuck said, “This estate consistently makes one of the most classic, age worthy whites in the appellation…”
In that same Wine Spectator issue – three of the top ten white Chateauneufs of the year went to Beaurenard. So it’s hard to go wrong, but they will set you back close to a hundred bucks.
I was intrigued when my annual box of sample bottles arrived last week – with a surprise entry. Mixed in with the 94-point, $95 white CDPs was a Cotes du Rhone that not only held its own but given the price – was the hand’s down winner.
So I went to the internet to find out more. Absolutely nothing. No expert reviews. Not for sale anywhere. Not even listed on the Beaurenard site itself. My best guess is that this was a vanity project for the Coulon brothers, who if the soil was 12 feet to the left 400 years ago, we’d be paying those three figures.
Despite the parade of consistent 93+ ratings, I’m going with the unpublished, unfindable, completely hidden gem for our first Beaurenard offering. It’s all in the sourcing. The Biotiful Fox Blanc delivers an aromatic fireworks show, showing off high tones of quince, lime and honeysuckle, while making simply prepared fish a Michelin 3 star experience.
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Just in time, we got back Vincent Ricard’s all-time great white wine bargain. This is a crisp, clean and flat out delicious Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The protege to the Silex-style of Dagueneau – who over the last 15 years has produced flawless and beloved white wines that at last count were on the wine lists of over 36 Michelin-starred restaurants. This is a great house white and one that can surely hold its own with just about everything on the table.
Elena Walch’s newly released 2022 Pinot Bianco continues to be the best example of Pinot Blanc anywhere. She’s the undisputed queen. There’s so much energy in this new release. Super light in color, with a busy nose that boasts ripe aromas of citrus, granny smith apple with a hint of freshly mowed grass. Made entirely in stainless steel, the wine is expressive, fresh and finishes as clean and tight as can be. Definitely will continue the run of 90+ scores once this one is reviewed.
This is a super elegant Meursault from the family-run estate located in the village of Monthelie, between Volnay and Meursault in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. It leads with nutty aromas of brioche, fresh butter and delicate citrus and is extremely well structured, long and stylish with great purity of fruit.
Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
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