Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$23.00
Matt’s wines have been on my short list of the most impressive reds produced anywhere in the U.S. for decades. Add the fact that most make it to retail shelves for under $30 means it’s also nearly impossible to find better value from anywhere in the world. Unfortunately, these wines will never exist again.
The key to natural concentration in any wine is tiny yields. Often that happens when a winegrower aggressively prunes so that flavors concentrate in the berries that remain. Sometimes nature kicks in and hydric stress causes the grapes to remain tiny and concentrated -even shrivel on the vine. Occasionally – hail might do the work for you.
In the case of these ancient vineyards – this all happens naturally. Ancient grape bushes produce few berries. The sandy soils provide hydric stress. The grapes remain minuscule and super-concentrated – mimicking amarone growing on the vine.
Now I absolutely adore the single varietal wines from Matt. The Evangelho Zinfandel may be one of the best in the world. The Petite Sirah is so thick and jammy and a total crowd pleaser. But if you ask me – the best wine of the whole bunch is the old-vine red, a true field blend of many of the same varieties found in Chateauneuf-du-Pape but without the $200 price tag the vines this old command.
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Winemaker Pascal Sirat consistently puts out some of the best value Bordeaux in the region but he may have outdone himself in what was a stellar 2019 vintage throughout the region. Just south of Pomerol, the vines at Panchille borrow deep in the soil. The resulting wines are ripe but fresh, with an aromatic complexity and stony finish usually reserved for wine twice the price. Daniel Boulud tells me it’s been the hottest bottle of wine at Bar Boulud for over a month, so I figured I’d better hurry up and secure my allocation! Don’t miss it.
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck – 95 Points, Lisa Perotti-Brown
The oft 100-point winemaker, Jayson Woodbridge had this to say when tasting his 2021 ‘Stargazing’ Sonoma Pinot: “The wine is vibrant and complex with subtle dark fruits and berries, grandmother’s cherry pie, minerals, and a slight touch of rain-soaked earth, intertwined with a balance and very pleasing easy-going luxury. Should have been priced higher but what the hell.” I have no doubt this clerical error will be addressed in the vintages moving forward. But for now, this is a cult Pinot for under $100/bottle.
In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
The 2021 Napa Valley East side Cuvee is an instant classic. From the first whiff to the moment it hits the lips, its clear that this is a fabulously concentrated, serious wine: black in color, and featuring aromas of cassis, cedar and chocolate-tinged purple fruit. The mouthfeel is plush and voluptuous with a firm, solid finish that speaks to its potential for considerable aging.
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