Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$20.00 $16.50
Alsace is often France’s forgotten region – arguably more German than French – similar to Italy’s Alto Adige. And equally similar, white wine has been king for hundreds of years and has been raised to perfectly pair with the region’s cuisine.
In Alsace that means foie gras and escargot – playing right into the gormand’s playbook. (Do try the flammekueche if you ever get the chance.) As Boston’s only Master Sommelier, Brahm Callahan says “Alsatian wines are priced like cheap Pinot Grigio but deliver like Grand Cru Burgundy.”
For that reason, Michelin starred restaurants line up around the block to add Alsatian selections to their wine lists. The region boasts a rich tradition of excellence produced by family run operations that go way back— and that’s where Pierre Sparr enters the picture. The family began establishing the estate in the 17th century. Just as George Washington began his first presidential term, the Sparr family began a drastic expansion of land holdings. However, many of these vineyards were decimated during World War II and had to be completely restored.
This tenacity continues with the twelve generation which has begun to add their vigor to the family business and legacy. The latest Sparr completed study in oenology and worked in Napa of all places for Pernod-Ricard before returning to the family estate in 2010. He came back with a chip on his shoulder, and since then the winery has been on a tear.
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This is truly of Sancerre’s greatest wines. It’s an incredible effort in a fantastic vintage for Sancerre in general, but even more so for my friend Dominique Roger. His single parcel ‘La Jouline’ is considered the Grand Cru vineyard of Bue. It’s crafted from 60-year old vines and given an extra year in bottle, adding incredible layers and complexity in the process. Tiny yields followed by partial barrel fermentation creates a wine with complex aromatics, explosive flavors, and a mineral-laced finish that makes it both incredible at the table with rich cuisine or a great candidate for short term aging.
For years now, I’ve been absolutely delighted by the White Burgundies at Domaine Corsin. There’s really good reason for that. The Corsin’s holdings in Pouilly-Fuissé include many of the best situated sites in the appellation. This wine comes from a selection of older vines grown in these limestone soils. The current vintage is simply showing fantastic at the moment. The 2020 Corsin Domain’s Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Vieilles Vignes’ displays a bright golden hue with a hint of green. Its subtle bouquet with a woody-vanilla note enhances the slightly sharp, sophisticated fullness on the palate mingled with a generous underlying impression of toasted bread.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
Just in time, we got back Vincent Ricard’s all-time great white wine bargain. This is a crisp, clean and flat out delicious Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The protege to the Silex-style of Dagueneau – who over the last 15 years has produced flawless and beloved white wines that at last count were on the wine lists of over 36 Michelin-starred restaurants. This is a great house white and one that can surely hold its own with just about everything on the table.
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