Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$180.00
Recently, I tasted one of the best Sauvignon Blancs in recent memory. Not only that – but it’s something new and exciting, in a region that we rarely see: Pouilly-Fume. Unsurprisingly, this wine is and has been a by-the-glass staple at Gramercy Tavern. After being blown away by this wine, I can only assume that every single New York City Sommelier who gets to taste this one salivates over it and orders as much as they can, so I knew I had to act fast.
It turns out that exceptional Pouilly-Fumes at great prices that also happen to have 92-points from the world’s toughest critic are in extremely high demand. But luckily, when I tasted this new vintage two weeks ago, I bought every bottle I could for us – 10 cases of liquid gold.
Jonathan Didier Pabiot’s ‘Leon’ Pouilly Fume is an absolutely gorgeous white wine that is still in its infancy. That’s what’s so amazing. It’s a wine that can be aged for years that is still a teeny bit tight and yet it already shows flashes of sheer brilliance.
With the holy trinity of soil types at his disposal (Kimmeridigian marl, chalky Porlandian, and clay-silex on flint), the ‘Leon’ Pouilly-Fume is grown off some of the very best dirt in France. This Cuvee (named for Pabiot’s son) is made from the old-vines grown on terre blanche terraces overlooking the Loire. The Wine Advocate in their rave 92-point review called it, “a rich and round, very elegant and aromatic Pouilly-Fume with good mineral and fruity freshness and a long, intense and tensioned finish that reveals fine tannins and crisp grip.” They are right on the money.
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92 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
The former Florilège comes with a new name this year. Predominantly from limestone soils but also silex, the 2020 Pouilly Fumé Léon offers a clear, deep, fresh and spicy, quite complex and iodine bouquet with great precision and mineral intensity. Aged in stainless steel, concrete and 20% oak barrels (228 and 500 liter), this is a rich and round, very elegant and aromatic Pouilly-Fumé with good mineral and fruity freshness and a long, intense and tensioned finish that reveals fine tannins and crisp grip. This is a substantial wine with excellent aging potential. Bottled in March this year with 13% stated alcohol and a natural cork.
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The newly released 2022 Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin has some big shoes to fill as the last four vintages have earned 92-points or higher, but the early indications are that this is line with previous vintages if not even a little bit ahead at this stage. The problem is – there’s almost none to go around with much smaller yields. Still this is beautiful and crisp, with good focus, energy and depth. I get the signature green fruits on the nose, with some Asian pear, and a hint of jasmine blossom. There’s a beautiful mineral streak that highlights this one. It’s a fantastic White Burg for the price.
One of the best places to look for great Tuesday nighters are the sandy, limestone-laden hills of Asti. And within Asti, there is no white wine calling card that holds a candle to Moscato. Here it is king. Gianni Doglia naturally farms a tiny estate in the picturesque hamlet of Castagnole Lanze. His Moscato is the product of old vines, vinfied without oak to preserve its incredible fruit. This is serious, high-quality and hand-harvested Moscat, that oozes with sweet tropical fruits and a hint of minerality that stays on your tongue with each sip. This is also the perfect wine for anyone searching for a low alcohol option as well.
Elena Walch’s newly released 2022 Pinot Bianco continues to be the best example of Pinot Blanc anywhere. She’s the undisputed queen. There’s so much energy in this new release. Super light in color, with a busy nose that boasts ripe aromas of citrus, granny smith apple with a hint of freshly mowed grass. Made entirely in stainless steel, the wine is expressive, fresh and finishes as clean and tight as can be. Definitely will continue the run of 90+ scores once this one is reviewed.
It’s hard to beat a great value white wine and this one is a at least a cut above the rest. One prominant industry insider called the 2022 edition, “the best white wine by any within $20/cs of this price.” It’s super crisp with a great mineral streak, and was carefully picked by hand when the temperature is coolest and is kept cool all the way into the press. From there, the effect of the mineral soil takes over, providing great finesse and freshness in every bottle. This white blend has great backbone and a lot of juicy fruit coming through behind aromas of flowers and stone fruits. At this price, it’s a no brainer.
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