Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$90.00
Aubert de Villaine of DRC fame once told a crazy story at a dinner I was at when asked about his 2016 Montrachet (his only white). In 2016, 80% of this tiny Grand Cru vineyard was lost to hail. In what was an unprecedented move in the history of Burgundy, all the domaines that own vines in Montrachet joined together to blend all their fruit into a single wine.
Someone asked Aubert, “If all of you put your fruit together, who made the wine?” Without any hesitation, he responded, “Domaine Leflaive, of course.” Pretty telling. When the winemaker of arguably the best red wine in the world tells you who makes the best white wine in the world without any hesitation, you listen!
And while I can’t offer up the long, long gone 2016 Montrachet, today, my inside access has earned us exclusive access at an unbeatable price on a secret declassified Leflaive project from 2018 that features fruit exclusively from Puligny Montrachet. But because the land is owned by relatives and long time friends the wines say, Leflaive & Associes instead of Domaine Leflaive.
Same farmers, winegrowers and vineyard managers, just not the estate fruit. Made in the Leflaive winery with the same barrels. Still the same unrivaled class in a bottle. Wine Spectator’s feature on the 2018 Leflaive wines called it “an ideal vintage”. That’s what you’re getting today. The same essential calcareous clay soil, the same team behind the best white wines in the whole world.
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The newly released 2022 Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin has some big shoes to fill as the last four vintages have earned 92-points or higher, but the early indications are that this is line with previous vintages if not even a little bit ahead at this stage. The problem is – there’s almost none to go around with much smaller yields. Still this is beautiful and crisp, with good focus, energy and depth. I get the signature green fruits on the nose, with some Asian pear, and a hint of jasmine blossom. There’s a beautiful mineral streak that highlights this one. It’s a fantastic White Burg for the price.
Sonoma Coast is well-known as a cool-climate region, perfect for growing Chardonnay. That’s why it’s such a big deal for Route Stock to transition over for the first time from Carnernos over to here. The newly released 2022 beams freshness and comes packed with a delightful energy in its youth. It has a pale straw color with lime hues. The aromas are of honeysuckle, orange blossom and creme brulee with layers of vanilla and a hint of toffee. The palate is lively yet soft with flavors of lemon cream pie and merange.
The Zenato family has built up quite the reputation for delivering exceptional value with their red and whites in Veneto. Their Pinot Grigio is a particularly great value, punching way above its weight class. Delicately scented and soft on the palate, it offers classic citrus and floral notes in a balanced elegant style. It’s smooth and refreshing with a long, pleasant finish. Great with food.
Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
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