Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$22.00 $18.50
My friend, Sergio Germano, the gentle giant of Serralunga, Barolo, came to town a few Augusts ago to taste me on all his new releases. I was excited to show off my new pizza oven to a real Italian. My plan was to make a few pizzas and a leg of lamb, making what I thought would be the perfect pairings with Sergio full-bodied, powerful wines.
Mother Nature did not cooperate, giving us a torrential downpour that never let up. I had to make a quick audible on lunch. Not so easy on a Monday afternoon. I decided on Yumi, one of my favorite local restaurants. Despite the food being completely incompatible with Sergio’s wines, I knew he’d appreciate the delicacy and precision of Shuenn’s sushi. Throughout the wine world, there are no greater foodies than the Piemontese….
Our plan was to taste all the wines first then dive into a multi-course sushi extravaganza. But our plan was quickly derailed as he conversation at the table slowed the tasting to a crawl and some truly great sushi dishes started arriving at the table. O-toro tartare, live scallop, shimaji with jalapeno, each dish was terrific both visually and on the palate. Sergio was blown away.
On the wine side, we were only a third of a way through his high-toned, structured red wines but I noticed a curious thing happening. I’d eat a piece of fish and then taste a wine no sommelier would ever suggest to go with it like Sergio’s Barbera d’Alba and you know what? It was good, really good. When I mentioned how odd that was, Sergio knew exactly what I was talking about, he chuckled and in that deep baritone, heavily accented, he said “I guess great food and great wine will always find a way to find each other.” It was a great lunch.
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Winemaker Pascal Sirat consistently puts out some of the best value Bordeaux in the region but he may have outdone himself in what was a stellar 2019 vintage throughout the region. Just south of Pomerol, the vines at Panchille borrow deep in the soil. The resulting wines are ripe but fresh, with an aromatic complexity and stony finish usually reserved for wine twice the price. Daniel Boulud tells me it’s been the hottest bottle of wine at Bar Boulud for over a month, so I figured I’d better hurry up and secure my allocation! Don’t miss it.
In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
The 2021 Napa Valley East side Cuvee is an instant classic. From the first whiff to the moment it hits the lips, its clear that this is a fabulously concentrated, serious wine: black in color, and featuring aromas of cassis, cedar and chocolate-tinged purple fruit. The mouthfeel is plush and voluptuous with a firm, solid finish that speaks to its potential for considerable aging.
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
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