Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$30.00 $24.99
Grown on a tiny organic six-hectare estate, at nearly 2,300 feet of elevation on an active volcano, the 70+ year old vines dig deep into the soil and given the turmoil underneath, they certainly deliver a bevy of interesting nuances that are found almost nowhere else in the wine world.
Part of what I think has so confused the critics is the volcanic minerality which is easily tasted and experienced – but doesn’t find easy parallels among obvious red wine comparisons like those described above. The best I can do is tell you it’s actually more akin to the mineral electric energy you find in a truly great Chablis – though you can taste a touch of the volcanic underpinnings. (I know it’s a white wine comparison but it’s still the most accurate).
Once you get a handle on that unique minerality, it really is just an immense combination of bright, beautiful dark fruits overlaid by an ever-evolving cornucopia of floral, citrus, and spice aromas that’s quite intoxicating. The blood orange, white pepper, and winter spices will be obvious, but I’m sure each of you will find other more interesting nuances – violets, olive, maybe even a “whiff of wild fennel”.
Like I said at the beginning, I’d be pleasantly surprised to pay 75 bucks a bottle for a wine of this character. And while this wine is very hard to find here in the US, its everyday price of $30 is a steal.
“In 2004 Silvia Maestrelli, who also owns Villa Petriolo in Tuscany, bought her Sicilian estate, consisting of roughly seven hectares of vines in the Rovittello area of Etna located at 670 meters. In fact, Tenuta di Fessina is not just one of the many young estates to have sprung up on Etna lately but also one of the best, offering many finely chiseled red wines that are lighter in body than those of most other Etna producers. Tenuta di Fessina is also one of the few estates that produce a monovariety Nerello Cappuccio wine. Maestrelli’s willingness to experiment with old forgotten varieties of Etna (rather than plant Petit Verdot or other international varieties as other newcomers have done) is a testament to her vision and her commitment to Etna’s distinctive terroirs.”
-Ian D’Agata
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92 Points, Wine Enthusiast
Aromas of brimstone, Mediterranean scrub, blue flowers and eucalyptus form the inviting nose along with a whiff of wild fennel. The racy, linear palate is almost ethereally elegant, offering tart red cherry, blood orange, olive brine and ground clove alongside vibrant acidity and lithe, dusty tannins. It’s still youthfully nervous so give it another year or two to come together, then enjoy. Drink 2023–2028.
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In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
90-92 Pts, Parker’s Wine Advocate – 91 Pts (Editors’ Choice), Wine Enthusiast – 91 Pts, Decanter
The wines get consistent high praise but 2018 is truly something special. 90-92 from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 91 points and an Editor’s Choice designation from Wine Enthusiast. 91 more from Decanter who provides “There is so much to enjoy in the smaller appellations this year. Drinking Window 2022 – 2031” and another 90 point score from James Suckling. This is a home run value – especially for the price.
94 Points, Tasting Panel
This is a really exciting new release in the collection of single-vineyards from the Wagner Family, and arguably the most interesting one of the bunch. This is the only Pinot Noir in the Caymus collection that has the advantage of being from a natural Pinot Noir haven in the Russian River Valley. Dairyman Vineyard’s proximity to the pacific ocean, with its morning fog and afternoon coastal breezes allows for an even and elongated growing season, with super concentrated and expressive grape clusters that help make this Dijon clone Pinot Noir one that you need.
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