Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$26.00 $18.00
Outside of Burgundy, nowhere in the world consistently produces better Pinot Noir and Chardonnay than California’s Russian River Valley. All the big California names have now bought in: Kendall Jackson, Rodney Strong and Paul Hobbs. But the very best wines, now and always have been made by small operations – like the guys from L’Oliveto.
The two winemakers behind L’Oliveto’s boutique operation bring a truckload of experience (Williams-Selyem, Robert Sinskey), but instead of laying all their cash into a single vineyard, they use their relationships to cherry pick the best vineyards each vintage without all the overhead. That means great wines every year and phenomenal prices.
2017 was the year they held all the aces. As wildfires raged, RRV was luckily spared but nonetheless, buyers were scarce. The long, hot 2017 vintage gave a few precious wineries the raw ingredients for truly exceptional wines. My favorite RRVs in 2017 came courtesy of Gary Farrell, Paul Hobbs and Merry Edwards. Just one problem, all three of those bottles will set you back a pretty penny. But for the quality to price ratio, L’Oliveto’s Pinot puts all three to shame.
The 2017 L’Oliveto is excellent and I don’t say that lightly. Well balanced, with super fresh, dark-berried fruit, a touch of earth and spice and a wonderful lingering finish. Even at its $26 release price this would be a phenomenal wine, easily worth twice the price. At today’s $18 a bottle – this is a no brainer. You’ll be enjoying this absolutely delicious Pinot Noir on Tuesday and Saturday nights alike all summer long.
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90 Points (Editors’ Choice), Wine Enthusiast
This is an attractively priced red made at high quality, aged entirely in French oak, 30% new, for nearly a year. Dark brooding fruit is accented in baking spice within a succulent palate that’s soft with earthy edges. The finish offers plenty of acidity and brightness.
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91 Points, Wine Enthusiast
Always the one with the most personality of the bunch, this is what Wine Enthusiast had to say about the 2021 release: “This extremely ripe and bold style of Pinot Noir will please those seeking such lushness. Dark in the glass, it begins with black cherry, toasty caramel and cola milk shake aromas.” The cool, coastal days and abundance of sunshine lines up perfectly for a wine that has a good natural acidic backbone, with bold fruit-forward flavors. In an easy 2021 vintage, Joe Wagner had a field day with this single-vineyard beauty.
Winemaker Pascal Sirat consistently puts out some of the best value Bordeaux in the region but he may have outdone himself in what was a stellar 2019 vintage throughout the region. Just south of Pomerol, the vines at Panchille borrow deep in the soil. The resulting wines are ripe but fresh, with an aromatic complexity and stony finish usually reserved for wine twice the price. Daniel Boulud tells me it’s been the hottest bottle of wine at Bar Boulud for over a month, so I figured I’d better hurry up and secure my allocation! Don’t miss it.
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck – 95 Points, Lisa Perotti-Brown
The oft 100-point winemaker, Jayson Woodbridge had this to say when tasting his 2021 ‘Stargazing’ Sonoma Pinot: “The wine is vibrant and complex with subtle dark fruits and berries, grandmother’s cherry pie, minerals, and a slight touch of rain-soaked earth, intertwined with a balance and very pleasing easy-going luxury. Should have been priced higher but what the hell.” I have no doubt this clerical error will be addressed in the vintages moving forward. But for now, this is a cult Pinot for under $100/bottle.
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
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