Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$24.00 $19.95
Like a lot of the top accounts in the country, I’ve been scrambling to fill the Sauvignon Blanc void that is coming for the 2021s. While the vintage was a disaster financially for wineries throughout France, the naturally thinned yields have produced some of their best wines ever.
But while I am extending my search beyond the confines of Sancerre, one family estate had already done that – in 1995. Sylvain Bailly owns parcels in some of the greatest vineyards in all of Sancerre: among their holdings are the great vineyards of Grand Chemarin, Le Château, Les Chasseignes, and the famous Chêne Marchand.
But in 1995, they found two parcels just outside of Sancerre in nearby Quincy that they just had have in their arsenal. Quincy, a little village on the east bank of the river Cher, is located between the towns of Bourges and Vierzon.
The parcels there are situated on vast limestone deposits of lacustrine origin, a near-perfect mix of clay and prehistoric shells. On the surface, fine gravel left from when the river used to have a different route – keeps the vineyards super dry and incredibly distinctive. There are no other vineyards in the whole Centre-Val de Loire quite like them.
The Sauvignon Blanc from here is pure, almost transparent with a touch of silver and features aromas of maritime salinity (no doubt due to the deeper soils), lemon rind, and a touch of grapefruit. The whole mouthfeel is bold, fruity, and refreshing.
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2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
“The 2018 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard marks the beginning of winemaker Joe Nielsen’s tenure at the winery. Pouring a medium yellow with a light golden hue, it’s most reserved of the flight aromatically at the moment, with yellow chamomile flowers, ripe peach, beeswax, and white flowers. Full-bodied, it retains excellent tension and focus on the palate, with apricot, orange zest, and a savory finish with a bit of spice. I suspect this will come around and open with time. Drink 2024-2030.” -Jeb Dunnuck
Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
Year in, year out Château Turcaud produces one of the best white wine values in the world. It’s long been found on Michelin-starred wine lists in Paris and we’ve had it at the restaurant since Day 1. If you’ve ever tried this stunning, classic Bordeaux of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle, then you know why. The new 2022 vintage has arrived and it’s beaming with energy and pure stone fruits. This is a beauty as always.
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