Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$35.00
Winemaking is a tradition that gets carefully passed from generation to generation. In the case of Proprietà Sperino, a couple of those generations were skipped but Paolo and Luca de Marchi are now the stewards of a 200 year old tradition and are making some of the most exciting wine in the world. Their ancestor, Dr Felice Sperino, stopped making wine in 1904 in Lessona, in the very shadow of the Alps, an hour and half northwest of Milano. In the 18th and 19th century, this area of northern Piemonte was the very center of fine wine in Italy. In the fine, silty, yellow sand of Lessona, Felice and his ancestors grew and made world-class Nebbiolo-based wines, the famed grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. But right around the turn of the 20th century, people started to abandon the vineyards of northern Piemonte. There were many reasons, two World Wars, mass migration of people, the industrial resurgence in and around Milan…for a poor farmer, it became silly to grow grapes in an Alpine climate when you could earn double working for Fiat! So, in 1904, Sperino made its last vintage of wine and the world slowly forgot about Lessona.
That is until 2004 when Paolo and Luca reopened Felice’s estate and reintroduced the world to the seductive wines of Lessona.
The 2016 Uvaggio from the “new”regime of Proprietà Sperino is so unique in the world of Italian wine. It has incredible balance, with sweet, pure fruit yet it is framed by a mineral structure and sense of salinity that is utterly distinctive. It’s a wine that seemingly has one foot in Burgundy and one in Piedmont, I believe lovers of either wines will be new converts to the very old charms of Lessona.
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In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
90 Points, James Suckling
Damien has crafted a delicious Médoc, full of character with dense black currant and cherry fruit, cedar, tobacco and wonderful complexity. It’s silky complexion is what pushes it over the edge (and, of course, the price!) It doesn’t hurt that it comes from a 95-point Left Bank vintage that the Wine Advocate declared, “outstanding.”
#24 Wine of the Year (2022), Wine Spectator
92 Points, Wine Spectator – 91 Points, James Suckling
“This supple red shows a core of cherry and plum fruit allied to olive, juniper and tobacco notes. Delivers well-integrated tannins and acidic structure, lingering nicely on the finish.”
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
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