Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$39.00
Winemaking is a tradition that gets carefully passed from generation to generation. In the case of Proprietà Sperino, a couple of those generations were skipped but Paolo and Luca de Marchi are now the stewards of a 200 year old tradition and are making some of the most exciting wine in the world.
Their ancestor, Dr Felice Sperino, stopped making wine in 1904 in Lessona, in the very shadow of the Alps, an hour and half northwest of Milano. In the 18th and 19th century, this area of northern Piemonte was the very center of fine wine in Italy. In the fine, silty, yellow sand of Lessona, Felice and his ancestors grew and made world-class Nebbiolo-based wines, the famed grape of Barolo and Barbaresco.
The 2013 Uvaggio from the “new”regime of Proprietà Sperino is so unique in the world of Italian wine. It has incredible balance, with sweet, pure fruit yet it is framed by a mineral structure and sense of salinity that is utterly distinctive. It’s a wine that seemingly has one foot in Burgundy and one in Piedmont, I believe lovers of either wines will be new converts to the very old charms of Lessona. Just look at what the Wine Advocate wrote about it– it’s longer than most essays I’ve ever written:
“This wine is named Uvaggio in reference to the fact it represents a blend of three grapes: 80% Nebbiolo, 15% Vespolina and 5% Croatina. Some of the fruit for the 2013 Coste della Sesia Uvaggio is harvested from parcels with sandy soils that give the wine more perfumed characteristics and other fruit is harvested from granite-rich soils that give the wine more structure and fiber. This is a deep and authentic red wine with balanced red fruit aromas that saturate a long and silky mouthfeel. Savory tones of spice and leather give the wine staying power. In all, the 2013 vintage is delicate and nuanced in nature. This property is managed by Luca and his father Paolo De Marchi (of Isole e Olena in Chianti Classico). It sits at a fascinating spot just at the base of the Italian Alps in a place characterized by one of the most dramatic altitude ascents in Italy. Those mighty mountains rise like a veritable wall causing violent exchanges between hot and cold air. In fact, Luca tells me that this is one of the most hail-prone spots in Italy and frequent storms have wiped out many promising vintages in the past. The property’s soils have loose grains of yellow sand that impart elegant mineral characteristics to the wines.”
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93+ Points, Parker’s Wine Advocate
This wine is named Uvaggio in reference to the fact it represents a blend of three grapes: 80% Nebbiolo, 15% Vespolina and 5% Croatina. Some of the fruit for the 2013 Coste della Sesia Uvaggio is harvested from parcels with sandy soils that give the wine more perfumed characteristics and other fruit is harvested from granite-rich soils that give the wine more structure and fiber. This is a deep and authentic red wine with balanced red fruit aromas that saturate a long and silky mouthfeel. Savory tones of spice and leather give the wine staying power. In all, the 2013 vintage is delicate and nuanced in nature. This property is managed by Luca and his father Paolo De Marchi (of Isole e Olena in Chianti Classico). It sits at a fascinating spot just at the base of the Italian Alps in a place characterized by one of the most dramatic altitude ascents in Italy. Those mighty mountains rise like a veritable wall causing violent exchanges between hot and cold air. In fact, Luca tells me that this is one of the most hail-prone spots in Italy and frequent storms have wiped out many promising vintages in the past. The property’s soils have loose grains of yellow sand that impart elegant mineral characteristics to the wines.
93 Points, Wine Enthusiast
What a delightful wine this is. Loaded with finesse, it opens with lovely scents of red berry, crushed rose, graphite, cooking spice and Alpine herb. The beguiling medium-bodied palate offers sour cherry, raspberry, white pepper and mineral while fresh acidity and polished tannins provide impeccable balance. It’s already drinking beautifully but will also provide several more years of pure enjoyment.
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91 Points, Wine Enthusiast
Always the one with the most personality of the bunch, this is what Wine Enthusiast had to say about the 2021 release: “This extremely ripe and bold style of Pinot Noir will please those seeking such lushness. Dark in the glass, it begins with black cherry, toasty caramel and cola milk shake aromas.” The cool, coastal days and abundance of sunshine lines up perfectly for a wine that has a good natural acidic backbone, with bold fruit-forward flavors. In an easy 2021 vintage, Joe Wagner had a field day with this single-vineyard beauty.
The 2021 Napa Valley East side Cuvee is an instant classic. From the first whiff to the moment it hits the lips, its clear that this is a fabulously concentrated, serious wine: black in color, and featuring aromas of cassis, cedar and chocolate-tinged purple fruit. The mouthfeel is plush and voluptuous with a firm, solid finish that speaks to its potential for considerable aging.
Winemaker Kian Tavakoli (Opus One, Clos du Val) continues to excel even while others struggle. In 2017, he still managed to deliver a beautiful and opulent Napa Valley Cabernet that’s both dark and juicy. The wine hails from both Coombsville and Rutherford, giving it distinct characteristics and a lot of drive. Deep ruby to the rim with excellent concentration, notes of Bing cherries, raspberry pie and hints of vanilla. On the palate, big wonderfully jammy fruit with young but impressive tannins and great length. The finish leaves notes of black cherry, and baked blueberry pie. Fantastic Napa value.
In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
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