Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$30.00 $23.50
In twenty-five plus years of working the floors of some of NYC finest restaurants, Richard Luftig, served hundreds of thousands of bottles of world-class Sancerre Whether it was with Lidia Bastianich at Felidia (where I first met him, the dissertation on the subtleties of the Chianti sub zones while I ate lunch at the bar left my head spinning) or for Stephen Starr at Upland, the world class cuisine coming out of these kitchens demanded high-toned, vibrant white wines, with the right acidity to cut through the fat and richness of so many great dishes. So when Richard embarked on his own wine-making project, Pied à Terre, he decided when it came to Sauvignon Blanc, he wanted to go for the extreme, to make edgy, electric white wine that could rival the best of Sancerre.
Rich sources his Sauvignon Blanc from the Frostwatch vineyard in the sub region of Bennett’s Valley, a cool-climate AVA south of Santa Rosa. It is usually 10 degrees cooler here than other parts of Sonoma, making it really the very edge of where grapes can get fully ripe. But the struggle for ripeness is the secret to the energy, aromatic complexity and length of this wine. Yields are naturally very low here, grapes are tiny and the length of the growing season is much longer than normal, allowing for maximum development of aroma, concentration, and texture.
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Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
Just in time, we got back Vincent Ricard’s all-time great white wine bargain. This is a crisp, clean and flat out delicious Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The protege to the Silex-style of Dagueneau – who over the last 15 years has produced flawless and beloved white wines that at last count were on the wine lists of over 36 Michelin-starred restaurants. This is a great house white and one that can surely hold its own with just about everything on the table.
I’ve forewarned Nicholas Wines customers that the 2022 vintage in Burgundy appears to be outstanding. As such, I’ve been stocking up on as much as I can. This one though is a Saturday Nighter – a special wine for sure. It comes from Fourchaume (one of the most noted Chablis 1ers crus) and vineyards situated on long slopes facing the sunrise, which allow for rapid soil warm up – a huge key to making deep, concentrated Chablis. Here the soils are predominantly brown clay and only slightly stony. Most of them are fairly deep and well-draining. It’s one of those most special white wine locations in all of Burgundy. This is a classic.
Elena Walch’s newly released 2022 Pinot Bianco continues to be the best example of Pinot Blanc anywhere. She’s the undisputed queen. There’s so much energy in this new release. Super light in color, with a busy nose that boasts ripe aromas of citrus, granny smith apple with a hint of freshly mowed grass. Made entirely in stainless steel, the wine is expressive, fresh and finishes as clean and tight as can be. Definitely will continue the run of 90+ scores once this one is reviewed.
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