Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$35.00 $32.95
The trend continues today with perhaps the greatest white wine ever out of Argentina. You might assume it would be a Torrentes as I did when the bottle was dropped off by the importer with a note covering the label – “One of your faves just did it again. Not what you think.”
A few seconds after the first whiff, I knew this wasn’t Torrentes but something far more complex. On the nose alone, I could already tell… this was going to be one of the best Chardonnays we’re going to offer this year. I ripped off the note. “El Enemigo by Catena.”
On the surface, a $30 Chardonnay– underneath a whole lot more. This wine is insane– wild flor yeasts that develop naturally in the barrels, help give this wine an added layer of sophistication in addition to the aromatic fireworks show. Similar to Giovanni Almondo’s “El Rive”, the barrels in this Chardonnay help to round things out, giving a wine that typically doesn’t see any oak in Mendoza, a welcomed creamy component.
The El Enemigo is always a critical darling and 2018 is no different – except this year, we’ve got enough to offer – well almost enough. James Suckling gave this effort 97 points and called it “another rock star Chardonnay”.
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97 Points, James Suckling
This is another rock-star chardonnay from here with dried-apple, pear-skin, crushed-stone and peach-pit character. Full body. Creamy texture. Phenolic form and a long, flavorful finish.
93 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
The textbook 2018 El Enemigo Chardonnay had varietal aromas and notes from the barrel, giving it a very attractive profile. But there is a secret: the barrels develop some flor yeasts in the style of Jerez (or Jura) and this gives the wine a spicy twist, hints of curry and white pepper. The wine is silky and the very high acidity is not noticeable. This is a great commercial success, and at the price, it offers great value.
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The newly released 2022 Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin has some big shoes to fill as the last four vintages have earned 92-points or higher, but the early indications are that this is line with previous vintages if not even a little bit ahead at this stage. The problem is – there’s almost none to go around with much smaller yields. Still this is beautiful and crisp, with good focus, energy and depth. I get the signature green fruits on the nose, with some Asian pear, and a hint of jasmine blossom. There’s a beautiful mineral streak that highlights this one. It’s a fantastic White Burg for the price.
Just in time, we got back Vincent Ricard’s all-time great white wine bargain. This is a crisp, clean and flat out delicious Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The protege to the Silex-style of Dagueneau – who over the last 15 years has produced flawless and beloved white wines that at last count were on the wine lists of over 36 Michelin-starred restaurants. This is a great house white and one that can surely hold its own with just about everything on the table.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
We’re nearing the end of what was a flawlessly crafted, high energy coastal Chardonnay release from one of California’s hottest spots. It’s still every bit as bright and refreshing as you could want and it hits with clean, pristine green apple fruits, pears and citrus notes with a hint of that limestone-influenced minerality. It’s a fantastic wine for all seasons, the perfect pair with mixed seafood, summer tomatoes, corn and freshly caught fish.
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