It’s no surprise either as I first discovered Gouges along with the world of fine dining and Saturday night burgundies at Jean Georges in the mid ‘90s. The economy was flying at the time and there was no place in the city where the truly epic, standard-bearing wines of the world flew off the list with more regularity.
For Jean-Georges and his wine team, the wines of Domaine Henri Gouges were held in similar esteem with the superstars of the wine world, DRC, Latour, Dom, you name it. For red Burgundy, and specifically, Nuits-Saint Georges, nothing sold quite like the pristinely cellared, wildly complex wines of Henri Gouges
Many years later, not much has changed in terms of the demand and respect of Domaine Gouges for Burgundy collectors and critics alike. If anything, the wines are better. Current proprietor and winemaker, Grégory Gouges, Henri’s great-great grandson, has amazingly raised the bar, farming organically, reducing yields, and employing a more rigorous selection of grapes. The resulting wines are finer and more supple than I remember from my Jean-Georges days, yet maintain the length and sheer energy that make them long-haul Burgundies, delicious this Saturday night and every other for next two decades.
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94 Points, Jasper Morris/Inside Burgundy
Dense but lively purple, a little bit reductive, having not yet been racked at any stage. Sweet rich ripe fruit but not cooked here, just ultra-lush, with good acidity. Nicely balanced, with even some elegance, I really enjoy the finish here, with a welcome strictness. Very promising.
93 Points, Wine Spectator
Graphite, black cherry, blackberry and baking spices are the hallmarks of this opulent red, which is backed by a spine of dusty tannins that leave a tactile feel on the long finish. Best from 2024 through 2040.
92 Points, Burghound
Firm reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose today though the underlying fruit does seem ripe. There is excellent vibrancy to the subtly mineral-driven larger-scaled flavors that possess better depth and persistence on the muscular, serious and youthfully austere finale. This is very Nuits in character without being overly rustic.
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