Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$30.00 $28.00
Andre Bonhomme’s white Burgundies always impress but the 2019 Vire Clessé is on a whole new level. Part of it is the vintage, I’m sure. As Jancis Robinson pointed out during her recent trip to Burgundy to taste all the top Meursault and the surrounding areas:
“I lost count of the delicious 2019s carrying the lowly Bourgogne appellation that I tasted, and these seemed so much better value than the grands crus that demand three- or even four-figure sums per bottle and many a long year of ageing.”
The weather took care of some of the hard work – with draught-conditions forcing universally smaller grapes, thereby concentrating flavors. But unlike 2020, where some vines were under stress, the 2019s just seemed to plow ahead through the heat, making wines of immense character and striking acids.
The result is a pretty special and rare gift. The 2019s will be one of the great vintages, but few wines if any will go through an ugly period – requiring extended aging. These wines are delicious and ready to drink right away and for the next several years.
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This is truly of Sancerre’s greatest wines. It’s an incredible effort in a fantastic vintage for Sancerre in general, but even more so for my friend Dominique Roger. His single parcel ‘La Jouline’ is considered the Grand Cru vineyard of Bue. It’s crafted from 60-year old vines and given an extra year in bottle, adding incredible layers and complexity in the process. Tiny yields followed by partial barrel fermentation creates a wine with complex aromatics, explosive flavors, and a mineral-laced finish that makes it both incredible at the table with rich cuisine or a great candidate for short term aging.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
2021 #67 WS Top 100
If you’ve never heard of Bisci, let’s start here. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate called Giuseppe Bisci’s Verdicchio “one of the finest I’ve ever tasted,” and noted that “Verdicchio is one of the joys of Italian oenology that rarely gets the respect it deserves, and few producers do it better than Bisci.” A staple at $85/bottle for both French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park. “Verdicchio is one of the joys of Italian oenology that rarely gets the respect it deserves, and few producers do it better than Bisci.” – The Wine Advocate
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