Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$135.00 $115.00
This list of inhabitants of the area of very special vineyards, tucked on the hill overlooking the town of Beaune (which lends its name to this entire half of Burgundy) has been steadily decreasing. The majority of the vines are now owned by the larger négotiants: Bouchard, Chanson, Drouhin, Jadot, Latour…
But just north of town lies the 1er cru vineyard, Clos du Roi, where the small family operation of Ampeau has been farming since the 1950s. Since the beginning, the Ampeaus have farmed their vines with a high leaf canopy, magnifying ripening through enhanced photosynthesis, thus harvesting earlier than his neighbors, picking ripe, but with vivid and striking acidity.
They’ve always held back substantial portions of the wine they’ve made going back decades. I was told, it had something to do with French tax loophole that I didn’t completely understand.
The result is that throughout their property is a treasure trove of catacombs, each housing a dozen or so wines from an amazing array of vineyards (Meursault, Perrieres, Charmes, La Piece sous le Bois, Sous la Velle, in Puligny, Combettes, Volnay, Santenots, Savigny, Lavieres, Pommard Vaumuriens, Auxey Ecusseaux and Beaune Clos du Roi) in vintages going back 40+ years.
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Today, Michel Ampeau takes appointments during day. In 2014, Michel suffered a stroke. He could no longer drive a tractor or perform cellar work. For over five years, not a single bottle from some of the coldest and deepest cellars in Burgundy was shipped stateside. Michel progressed slowly, but surely. Finally, in late 2018, he called to tell us that he could finally prepare and ship again, just a little bit at a time, and no more than 3 appellations/vintages per order. I traveled to Burgundy in January of 2019 with two others. We spent two days tasting dozens of perfectly aged Meursaults, Pulignys, Volnays, Savignys and Pommards, beginning in 1976 (!), in the cellar 26 stone steps beneath the family’s home. The wines at Ampeau are in a kind of suspended animation, always seeming to be 20 years younger than what the label reads. After the tasting, I took the remainder of each wine back ton my room at Le Montrachet, just up the road in Puligny. Then I continued my evaluation. In the end, I settled on a few selections, the one of which I am happy to offer today.
The color of the Savigny-les-Beaunes 1999 defies its age. It is a dark purple shade all the way to the rim. The nose is awesome, showing off a bouquet of dark fruits laced with baking spices and a hint of mint. The earth-tinged fruit is deep and concentrated; the 99s have always had incredible fruit. Yet the wine is light on its feet, dancing across the palate, very fresh and quite long. This is wine to experience over a few hours, it’s got many layers, take your time with it.
What you shouldn’t take your time with is clicking the buy button. This amazing red Burgundy, with 21 year of bottle age, is perfectly aged, stored, shipped and can delivered to directly your front door. Don’t miss it
Winemaker Pascal Sirat consistently puts out some of the best value Bordeaux in the region but he may have outdone himself in what was a stellar 2019 vintage throughout the region. Just south of Pomerol, the vines at Panchille borrow deep in the soil. The resulting wines are ripe but fresh, with an aromatic complexity and stony finish usually reserved for wine twice the price. Daniel Boulud tells me it’s been the hottest bottle of wine at Bar Boulud for over a month, so I figured I’d better hurry up and secure my allocation! Don’t miss it.
93 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – 93 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
“Vignon’s 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape delivers even more than I hoped for based on a previous sample. Hints of garrigue, roses, cherries and raspberries appear on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied, silky and long, with an intense, almost briny finish. The assemblage is 50% Grenache, 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus smaller proportions of seven other permitted varieties, while the élevage includes foudres, demi-muids, concrete and wooden tanks, plus terracotta amphorae.”
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
With seemingly infinite access to some of the absolute very best vineyards in the most choice AVAs in the valley, the Wagner’s set out to make Quilt– a Cabernet blend from a patchwork of the top sites in Napa (Oakville, St Helena, Atlas Peak, Coombsville, Calistoga, and Howell Mountain.) The brand new 2021 edition is a beauty – deeply concentrated, rich and a truly show stopping Cabernet. It’s a dark, hedonistic blend that combines elegance with power and pairs the two together effortlessly.
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