Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$30.00 $28.50
Etienne Daulny is latest in a ridiculously long line of Daulnys to grow Sauvignon Blanc in Sancerre. Few addresses are as good as Etienne’s in the beautiful village of Verdigny. But it is not so easy to grow grapes here; it’s cold, the soil is poor, hail is always a risk and to make great wine, you can’t make a ton of it. And they pay a lot of taxes….So, making wine here is more a labor of love than it is a great business plan. But it’s hard to argue with the results. Tasting Etienne’s racy, electric Sancerre makes it pretty obvious that there is a higher purpose to his labor.
The prize of the domaine is Le Clos De Chaudenay a single vineyard parcel of 40-year-old vines facing southwest at high elevation above the village of Verdigny. It’s a unique micro-climate, a bit warmer than the rest of chilly Verdigny so Sancerre from this plot shows more weight, with ripe citrus and peach fruit. The mineral soil adds aromatic complexity, amazing tension and incredible length with an almost salty finish.
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The newly released 2022 Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin has some big shoes to fill as the last four vintages have earned 92-points or higher, but the early indications are that this is line with previous vintages if not even a little bit ahead at this stage. The problem is – there’s almost none to go around with much smaller yields. Still this is beautiful and crisp, with good focus, energy and depth. I get the signature green fruits on the nose, with some Asian pear, and a hint of jasmine blossom. There’s a beautiful mineral streak that highlights this one. It’s a fantastic White Burg for the price.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
For years now, I’ve been absolutely delighted by the White Burgundies at Domaine Corsin. There’s really good reason for that. The Corsin’s holdings in Pouilly-Fuissé include many of the best situated sites in the appellation. This wine comes from a selection of older vines grown in these limestone soils. The current vintage is simply showing fantastic at the moment. The 2020 Corsin Domain’s Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Vieilles Vignes’ displays a bright golden hue with a hint of green. Its subtle bouquet with a woody-vanilla note enhances the slightly sharp, sophisticated fullness on the palate mingled with a generous underlying impression of toasted bread.
Just in time, we got back Vincent Ricard’s all-time great white wine bargain. This is a crisp, clean and flat out delicious Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The protege to the Silex-style of Dagueneau – who over the last 15 years has produced flawless and beloved white wines that at last count were on the wine lists of over 36 Michelin-starred restaurants. This is a great house white and one that can surely hold its own with just about everything on the table.
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