Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$34.00
In the late Fall of 1984, as the dollar hit all-time highs against the French Franc, a young American importer booked two R/T tickets to Paris Orly. Believing it was now or never, he then did one better, and reserved a table for two at Taillevent, Jean-Claude Vrinat’s 3-star restaurant at ADDRESS.
As the maitre d’hotel led the importer to his table, the 29 year-old importer felt like an imposter on a Hollywood set. The Taillevent clientele was dressed in Armani and Zegna, while he and his friend were clad in faded sports coats with frayed lapels and slacks that still bore the creases from the 7-hour flight the night before.
The Taillevent Carte des Vins was world renown, a thick tome, replete with an exhaustive selection of classified growth Bordeaux, including pages and pages of back vintages of First Growth Chateaux Lafite, Mouton, Haut Brion and Latour. But as had always been the case since since the importer first visited Burgundy in the summer of 1979, he passed over the Bordeaux and went to white Burgundy section of the wine list — dozens of pages filled with carefully cellared bottles from the greatest estates in the Cote de Beaune.
His eyes were like saucers as he scoured back vintages from Leflaive, Lafon, Roulot, Ampeau, Niellon, Sauzet and Ramonet. But it wouldn’t be long before he realized that even with the dollar at 9.64 to the French Franc, his palate was far more adventurous than his bank account.
The sommelier approached our table, clad in classic black on white, his silver tastevin tasting cup draped around his neck. He smiled politely, eyed our frayed lapels and intuited our predicament.
“You appear to be a white Burgundy connoisseur. May I suggest something unusual for you to try?”
“Please.”
“Consider the 1978 Macon-Vire from Andre Bonhomme. It’s the only Chardonnay from the Maconais at Taiillevent, and we held the wine in our cellar for five years before putting it on the list. It’s magnificent.” Then he stopped, smiled. And winked! “Honestly, it’s like village Meursault at one-third the price… only BETTER!”
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It’s an electric white Burgundy, with a limestone-laced aromatic profile of green apple, pear and hazelnut. Refined and high-toned, the pure, delicious fruit that is a hallmark of this terrific vintage, finishes long and fresh, with a mile-long mineral streak.
2021 #67 WS Top 100
If you’ve never heard of Bisci, let’s start here. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate called Giuseppe Bisci’s Verdicchio “one of the finest I’ve ever tasted,” and noted that “Verdicchio is one of the joys of Italian oenology that rarely gets the respect it deserves, and few producers do it better than Bisci.” A staple at $85/bottle for both French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park. “Verdicchio is one of the joys of Italian oenology that rarely gets the respect it deserves, and few producers do it better than Bisci.” – The Wine Advocate
For years now, I’ve been absolutely delighted by the White Burgundies at Domaine Corsin. There’s really good reason for that. The Corsin’s holdings in Pouilly-Fuissé include many of the best situated sites in the appellation. This wine comes from a selection of older vines grown in these limestone soils. The current vintage is simply showing fantastic at the moment. The 2020 Corsin Domain’s Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Vieilles Vignes’ displays a bright golden hue with a hint of green. Its subtle bouquet with a woody-vanilla note enhances the slightly sharp, sophisticated fullness on the palate mingled with a generous underlying impression of toasted bread.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
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