Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$32.00
Recently, I tasted one of the best Sauvignon Blancs in recent memory. Not only that – but it’s something new and exciting, in a region that we rarely see: Pouilly-Fume. Unsurprisingly, this wine is and has been a by-the-glass staple at Gramercy Tavern. After being blown away by this wine, I can only assume that every single New York City Sommelier who gets to taste this one salivates over it and orders as much as they can, so I knew I had to act fast.
It turns out that exceptional Pouilly-Fumes at great prices that also happen to have 92-points from the world’s toughest critic are in extremely high demand. But luckily, when I tasted this new vintage two weeks ago, I bought every bottle I could for us – 10 cases of liquid gold.
Jonathan Didier Pabiot’s ‘Leon’ Pouilly Fume is an absolutely gorgeous white wine that is still in its infancy. That’s what’s so amazing. It’s a wine that can be aged for years that is still a teeny bit tight and yet it already shows flashes of sheer brilliance.
With the holy trinity of soil types at his disposal (Kimmeridigian marl, chalky Porlandian, and clay-silex on flint), the ‘Leon’ Pouilly-Fume is grown off some of the very best dirt in France. This Cuvee (named for Pabiot’s son) is made from the old-vines grown on terre blanche terraces overlooking the Loire. The Wine Advocate in their rave 92-point review called it, “a rich and round, very elegant and aromatic Pouilly-Fume with good mineral and fruity freshness and a long, intense and tensioned finish that reveals fine tannins and crisp grip.” They are right on the money.
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92 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
The former Florilège comes with a new name this year. Predominantly from limestone soils but also silex, the 2020 Pouilly Fumé Léon offers a clear, deep, fresh and spicy, quite complex and iodine bouquet with great precision and mineral intensity. Aged in stainless steel, concrete and 20% oak barrels (228 and 500 liter), this is a rich and round, very elegant and aromatic Pouilly-Fumé with good mineral and fruity freshness and a long, intense and tensioned finish that reveals fine tannins and crisp grip. This is a substantial wine with excellent aging potential. Bottled in March this year with 13% stated alcohol and a natural cork.
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94 Points, James Suckling – 93 Points, Decanter
“Soaring lemon cream aromatics accented by notes of sea spray, lemongrass and beeswax mark this coastal Chardonnay from Flowers on the Sonoma Coast. The palate is fresh and linear. Oyster shell salinity, bee pollen and grilled lemon make for a savoury balance with delicate crushed chalk minerality.”
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
“The 2018 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard marks the beginning of winemaker Joe Nielsen’s tenure at the winery. Pouring a medium yellow with a light golden hue, it’s most reserved of the flight aromatically at the moment, with yellow chamomile flowers, ripe peach, beeswax, and white flowers. Full-bodied, it retains excellent tension and focus on the palate, with apricot, orange zest, and a savory finish with a bit of spice. I suspect this will come around and open with time. Drink 2024-2030.” -Jeb Dunnuck
Sonoma Coast is well-known as a cool-climate region, perfect for growing Chardonnay. That’s why it’s such a big deal for Route Stock to transition over for the first time from Carnernos over to here. The newly released 2022 beams freshness and comes packed with a delightful energy in its youth. It has a pale straw color with lime hues. The aromas are of honeysuckle, orange blossom and creme brulee with layers of vanilla and a hint of toffee. The palate is lively yet soft with flavors of lemon cream pie and merange.
The newly released 2022 Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin has some big shoes to fill as the last four vintages have earned 92-points or higher, but the early indications are that this is line with previous vintages if not even a little bit ahead at this stage. The problem is – there’s almost none to go around with much smaller yields. Still this is beautiful and crisp, with good focus, energy and depth. I get the signature green fruits on the nose, with some Asian pear, and a hint of jasmine blossom. There’s a beautiful mineral streak that highlights this one. It’s a fantastic White Burg for the price.
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