You probably already know the wines of Vincent Girardin. The Côte de Beaune rock star who started with just five acres of Santenay in 1980 at the age of 19 and subsequently built one of the best portfolios in all of Burgundy.
After tasting through dozens of his dazzling wines a couple of months ago, there was one that I just couldn’t shake and I kept coming back to taste it again and again and again.
Drawn from 65+ year old vines (thus the Vielles Vignes designation) and primarily from “Les Lurets” and “La Gigotte” vineyards at the bottom of Volnay where limestone and clay soils prevail.
For the uninitiated, great Volnay is an absolute delight and unlike some other great Burgundies, it can be enjoyed without a decade or two in the cellar. That’s also big in my book.
Vincent Girardin Winemaker, Eric Germain, described it well when asked about this wine. “Volnay combines breeding with nobility, delicacy, elegance, and feminity. A delicate violet and berry fragrance. One of the finest representatives of the Côte de Beaune. The Volnay is in the Côte de Beaune what the Chambolle-Musigny is in the Côte de Nuits. A feminine wine which is one of the only Burgundy Pinot Noir you can already enjoy and drink when young.”
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92 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
The 2017 Volnay showed beautifully, with the ripe, sexy style of the vintage balanced nicely by plenty of freshness and focus. Lots of darker strawberry and framboise notes as well as spring flowers, wood smoke, spice box, and forest floor notes emerge on the nose, and it’s medium-bodied, has a light, vibrant texture, ripe tannins, a great finish. It shows more structure with time in the glass and is a beautiful, ethereal Volnay that will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and drink brilliantly over the following decade.
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