Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$23.00
Matt’s wines have been on my short list of the most impressive reds produced anywhere in the U.S. for decades. Add the fact that most make it to retail shelves for under $30 means it’s also nearly impossible to find better value from anywhere in the world. Unfortunately, these wines will never exist again.
The key to natural concentration in any wine is tiny yields. Often that happens when a winegrower aggressively prunes so that flavors concentrate in the berries that remain. Sometimes nature kicks in and hydric stress causes the grapes to remain tiny and concentrated -even shrivel on the vine. Occasionally – hail might do the work for you.
In the case of these ancient vineyards – this all happens naturally. Ancient grape bushes produce few berries. The sandy soils provide hydric stress. The grapes remain minuscule and super-concentrated – mimicking amarone growing on the vine.
Now I absolutely adore the single varietal wines from Matt. The Evangelho Zinfandel may be one of the best in the world. The Petite Sirah is so thick and jammy and a total crowd pleaser. But if you ask me – the best wine of the whole bunch is the old-vine red, a true field blend of many of the same varieties found in Chateauneuf-du-Pape but without the $200 price tag the vines this old command.
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In the 2020 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin, yields were super low and temperatures were hotter than most Burgundian winemakers are accustomed. Many picked too late when the sugars were high and the fruit really ripe, but that was not the play. Still, Ann remained as cool in those hot temps as she did so many years ago in Napa, concentrating more on acid levels than sugars and picking at just the right time. This wine is absolutely singing – it’s an age-worthy beauty that should be even better in 4-7 years.
The secret to Philippe’s tightly wound, complex Pinot Noir is a combo of ancient vines, natural farming techniques, and low yields. The wines are built to age, with incredible tension and length. And the secret to me securing his other-wordly 2017 old-vine Gevry-Chambertin can be chalked up to a great relationship and over a decade supporting superior Burgundian winemaking. The wine is scary good. The nose is wild, filled with spiced dark raspberries, red flowers, and baking spices. The palate is elegant and racy, with a dynamic tension that runs right through its minute-long finish. This is a high-toned, wound-up Pinot, that is starting to hit its prime and is really turning out to be a ‘must-have’ for true Burgundy lovers.
The newly released Fiancetto Howell Mt. Cabernet is a dream – a gorgeous, elegant dark-fruited Cabernet Sauvignon that is it picks up time in the glass, unfurls its full signature of cedar laced cassis nose and mid palate of chocolate-covered cherries and savory spices. Only four palates of this (224 cases) were made off a gorgeous, sprawling high elevation spot 1500 feet above sea level. It’s full and plush and finishes fresh and oh so long. The price is crazy for Howell Mountain Cabernet but that’s what Ry Richards and Fiancetto is all about.
92 Points, James Suckling
Since the late 1990’s Penner-Ash has been viewed as one of Oregon’s top wineries making gorgeous wines in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. In the 2021 vintage considered to be one of Oregon’s all-time great years, the 2021 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir that Lynn crafted is gorgeous, a silky tightly woven number that mixes red and black fruits with some sage and baking spices and a savory finish. It’s got some nice weight to it and structure which suggests it’ll age well for the next 10-15 years though it’s already drinking beautifully in its youth.
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