Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$30.00 $24.99
Grown on a tiny organic six-hectare estate, at nearly 2,300 feet of elevation on an active volcano, the 70+ year old vines dig deep into the soil and given the turmoil underneath, they certainly deliver a bevy of interesting nuances that are found almost nowhere else in the wine world.
Part of what I think has so confused the critics is the volcanic minerality which is easily tasted and experienced – but doesn’t find easy parallels among obvious red wine comparisons like those described above. The best I can do is tell you it’s actually more akin to the mineral electric energy you find in a truly great Chablis – though you can taste a touch of the volcanic underpinnings. (I know it’s a white wine comparison but it’s still the most accurate).
Once you get a handle on that unique minerality, it really is just an immense combination of bright, beautiful dark fruits overlaid by an ever-evolving cornucopia of floral, citrus, and spice aromas that’s quite intoxicating. The blood orange, white pepper, and winter spices will be obvious, but I’m sure each of you will find other more interesting nuances – violets, olive, maybe even a “whiff of wild fennel”.
Like I said at the beginning, I’d be pleasantly surprised to pay 75 bucks a bottle for a wine of this character. And while this wine is very hard to find here in the US, its everyday price of $30 is a steal.
“In 2004 Silvia Maestrelli, who also owns Villa Petriolo in Tuscany, bought her Sicilian estate, consisting of roughly seven hectares of vines in the Rovittello area of Etna located at 670 meters. In fact, Tenuta di Fessina is not just one of the many young estates to have sprung up on Etna lately but also one of the best, offering many finely chiseled red wines that are lighter in body than those of most other Etna producers. Tenuta di Fessina is also one of the few estates that produce a monovariety Nerello Cappuccio wine. Maestrelli’s willingness to experiment with old forgotten varieties of Etna (rather than plant Petit Verdot or other international varieties as other newcomers have done) is a testament to her vision and her commitment to Etna’s distinctive terroirs.”
-Ian D’Agata
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92 Points, Wine Enthusiast
Aromas of brimstone, Mediterranean scrub, blue flowers and eucalyptus form the inviting nose along with a whiff of wild fennel. The racy, linear palate is almost ethereally elegant, offering tart red cherry, blood orange, olive brine and ground clove alongside vibrant acidity and lithe, dusty tannins. It’s still youthfully nervous so give it another year or two to come together, then enjoy. Drink 2023–2028.
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92 Points, Vinous – 92 Points, James Suckling – 91 Points, Wine & Spirits
“The 2021 Malbec Reserva, from Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo, was 60% aged in barrels for 12 months. Purple in color. The nose presents notes of fresh plum and violets, white pepper, strawberry, hints of spice and aromas from the aging process. It’s initially indulgent in the mouth, with good fat, and volume and a velvety texture. The flavors are bold and full-bodied. This 2021 overdelivers at the price.” -Vinous
Winemaker Kian Tavakoli (Opus One, Clos du Val) continues to excel even while others struggle. In 2017, he still managed to deliver a beautiful and opulent Napa Valley Cabernet that’s both dark and juicy. The wine hails from both Coombsville and Rutherford, giving it distinct characteristics and a lot of drive. Deep ruby to the rim with excellent concentration, notes of Bing cherries, raspberry pie and hints of vanilla. On the palate, big wonderfully jammy fruit with young but impressive tannins and great length. The finish leaves notes of black cherry, and baked blueberry pie. Fantastic Napa value.
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck – 95 Points, Lisa Perotti-Brown
The oft 100-point winemaker, Jayson Woodbridge had this to say when tasting his 2021 ‘Stargazing’ Sonoma Pinot: “The wine is vibrant and complex with subtle dark fruits and berries, grandmother’s cherry pie, minerals, and a slight touch of rain-soaked earth, intertwined with a balance and very pleasing easy-going luxury. Should have been priced higher but what the hell.” I have no doubt this clerical error will be addressed in the vintages moving forward. But for now, this is a cult Pinot for under $100/bottle.
Winemaker Pascal Sirat consistently puts out some of the best value Bordeaux in the region but he may have outdone himself in what was a stellar 2019 vintage throughout the region. Just south of Pomerol, the vines at Panchille borrow deep in the soil. The resulting wines are ripe but fresh, with an aromatic complexity and stony finish usually reserved for wine twice the price. Daniel Boulud tells me it’s been the hottest bottle of wine at Bar Boulud for over a month, so I figured I’d better hurry up and secure my allocation! Don’t miss it.
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