Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$90.00
Aubert de Villaine of DRC fame once told a crazy story at a dinner I was at when asked about his 2016 Montrachet (his only white). In 2016, 80% of this tiny Grand Cru vineyard was lost to hail. In what was an unprecedented move in the history of Burgundy, all the domaines that own vines in Montrachet joined together to blend all their fruit into a single wine.
Someone asked Aubert, “If all of you put your fruit together, who made the wine?” Without any hesitation, he responded, “Domaine Leflaive, of course.” Pretty telling. When the winemaker of arguably the best red wine in the world tells you who makes the best white wine in the world without any hesitation, you listen!
And while I can’t offer up the long, long gone 2016 Montrachet, today, my inside access has earned us exclusive access at an unbeatable price on a secret declassified Leflaive project from 2018 that features fruit exclusively from Puligny Montrachet. But because the land is owned by relatives and long time friends the wines say, Leflaive & Associes instead of Domaine Leflaive.
Same farmers, winegrowers and vineyard managers, just not the estate fruit. Made in the Leflaive winery with the same barrels. Still the same unrivaled class in a bottle. Wine Spectator’s feature on the 2018 Leflaive wines called it “an ideal vintage”. That’s what you’re getting today. The same essential calcareous clay soil, the same team behind the best white wines in the whole world.
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This is truly of Sancerre’s greatest wines. It’s an incredible effort in a fantastic vintage for Sancerre in general, but even more so for my friend Dominique Roger. His single parcel ‘La Jouline’ is considered the Grand Cru vineyard of Bue. It’s crafted from 60-year old vines and given an extra year in bottle, adding incredible layers and complexity in the process. Tiny yields followed by partial barrel fermentation creates a wine with complex aromatics, explosive flavors, and a mineral-laced finish that makes it both incredible at the table with rich cuisine or a great candidate for short term aging.
Glistening pale yellow-green to the rim, infused with mouth-watering aromas of ripe apple, pear and quince, and crushed almonds with honey and rich creamy middle and a fantastic rush of acidity and minerality that are present throughout. A calling card of Bonhomme’s Vire-Clesse, if you closed your eyes and took a sip, it would have you convinced you were drinking Meursault at least a 3x price tag.
From just west of Sancerre, Vincent’s vines are tended organically in flint-laden, calcareous soil which lends a great brightness to the wine. The wine is crisp and aromatic Sauvignon, and is a superb choice for a “cocktail” wine, as an aperitif or to accompany just about anything from sea.
Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
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