Some wines just transcend all the nonsense. The Bricco delle Ciliegie ‘Le Rive’ is one of those rare viticultural masterpieces – where the winemaker’s job is really to just not screw up what nature’s provided in this very special vineyard. Domenico Almondo who learned from the best in his father, Giovanni, has taken that stewardship to unheard of levels.
For the ‘gold label’ micro-cuvee of Bricco delle Ciliegie only the vineyard’s single oldest patch is used for the grapes. They use just the first half of the juice from the press in this very special bottling (the rest sold off). If you ever wanted a secret touch to the nose as your hint, here you are.
Last year was the first time Domenico ever submitted his Le Rive to be scored by Vinous. They came back with a 93 (a point or three too low in my opinion), but it’s almost expected for Italian white wines to be a little under-appreciated in the international wine scene. Still, you can just tell the word is starting to get out about this special number – it’s a truly elite Arneis. I have to fight tooth and nail for every bottle we get each year.
93 Points, Vinous
The 2020 Roero Arneis Le Rive del Bricco delle Ciliegie is done in a style that emphasizes bright acids and clean, sizzling minerality. Citrus peel, white pepper, crushed rocks and sage all run through this steely, vibrant dry white. Time in the glass brings out some of the wine’s textural richness, but this remains a decidedly taut, austere style. Even so, the 2020 is absolutely gorgeous.
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