Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$39.00
A few winters ago, back when people traveled from one country to another, I received an incredible one on one education on the differences of the terroirs of Sancerre from the master himself, Dominique Roger. (I also was lucky enough to have his wife cook us a traditional dinner with about 20 different vintages of Sancerre white and red but that’s a different story).
I’m not gonna lie, I generally thought of Sancerre as a pretty simple, crisp white that offers incredible value, food friendliness and consistency. But I have changed my tune after walking through the vineyards with Dominique, freezing my butt off for over 4 hours.
Each site offered incredibly different soil and exposure just like in Burgundy. We walked through one vineyard that was so filled with chalk rock that the ground looked like the desert floor. You want to know why your wine tastes like minerals? This couldn’t have been more clear here!
Dominique said that he bottled this vineyard separately and naturally calls it Les Deserts. When I asked him why I’ve never tasted it, his answer was simple. “We don’t send it to America”. Naturally.
Once we were back in the cellar, I asked him if I could taste Les Deserts from the tank. Wow! Dead ringer for Premier Cru Chablis. It was that complex. How could I confuse Sauvignon Blanc with Chardonnay?? Well, it makes sense as the vines of Les Deserts are rooted in Kimmeridgian rock, the same soil you find in the best vineyards of Chablis.
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From just west of Sancerre, Vincent’s vines are tended organically in flint-laden, calcareous soil which lends a great brightness to the wine. The wine is crisp and aromatic Sauvignon, and is a superb choice for a “cocktail” wine, as an aperitif or to accompany just about anything from sea.
2022 was an absolutely perfect vintage in this respect and unfortunately, I think it will be one of the last, if not THE last. As winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard reported to Decanter: “When we taste the wines, we feel that the balance between acidity and ripeness is very good. It’s a classic style of Chablis. In the end, even after such a heat during summertime, we stay in a cool year reference.” He also alluded to the ageability of the vintage, saying “Let’s give them time, we must let nature do its work.”
The newly released Riesling Feinherb 2021 is a lively, juicy wine with an elegant bouquet of minerals, wet stone and ripe fruit. On the palate, the wine’s slight off-dry component is beautifully balanced by the steely acidity typical of the Mosel. Because this is freshly released, the fruit is vibrant and succulent and it comes in somewhere between off-dry and semi-sweet. It’s a great example of Riesling, especially at the price.
One of the best places to look for great Tuesday nighters are the sandy, limestone-laden hills of Asti. And within Asti, there is no white wine calling card that holds a candle to Moscato. Here it is king. Gianni Doglia naturally farms a tiny estate in the picturesque hamlet of Castagnole Lanze. His Moscato is the product of old vines, vinfied without oak to preserve its incredible fruit. This is serious, high-quality and hand-harvested Moscat, that oozes with sweet tropical fruits and a hint of minerality that stays on your tongue with each sip. This is also the perfect wine for anyone searching for a low alcohol option as well.
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