Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$22.00
Domaine de Beaurenard has been a consistent critical darling over many, many years in the business like when they graced the Thanksgiving cover of Wine Spectator the year before last. The importer has been after me for years to ‘work’ more with their wines as he puts it.
And yes – their red CDPs often grab rave reviews, but it’s their full-throttled whites that I’ve always been most interested in – whites that set the standard for much of the region. As Jeb Dunnuck said, “This estate consistently makes one of the most classic, age worthy whites in the appellation…”
In that same Wine Spectator issue – three of the top ten white Chateauneufs of the year went to Beaurenard. So it’s hard to go wrong, but they will set you back close to a hundred bucks.
I was intrigued when my annual box of sample bottles arrived last week – with a surprise entry. Mixed in with the 94-point, $95 white CDPs was a Cotes du Rhone that not only held its own but given the price – was the hand’s down winner.
So I went to the internet to find out more. Absolutely nothing. No expert reviews. Not for sale anywhere. Not even listed on the Beaurenard site itself. My best guess is that this was a vanity project for the Coulon brothers, who if the soil was 12 feet to the left 400 years ago, we’d be paying those three figures.
Despite the parade of consistent 93+ ratings, I’m going with the unpublished, unfindable, completely hidden gem for our first Beaurenard offering. It’s all in the sourcing. The Biotiful Fox Blanc delivers an aromatic fireworks show, showing off high tones of quince, lime and honeysuckle, while making simply prepared fish a Michelin 3 star experience.
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It’s an electric white Burgundy, with a limestone-laced aromatic profile of green apple, pear and hazelnut. Refined and high-toned, the pure, delicious fruit that is a hallmark of this terrific vintage, finishes long and fresh, with a mile-long mineral streak.
This is truly of Sancerre’s greatest wines. It’s an incredible effort in a fantastic vintage for Sancerre in general, but even more so for my friend Dominique Roger. His single parcel ‘La Jouline’ is considered the Grand Cru vineyard of Bue. It’s crafted from 60-year old vines and given an extra year in bottle, adding incredible layers and complexity in the process. Tiny yields followed by partial barrel fermentation creates a wine with complex aromatics, explosive flavors, and a mineral-laced finish that makes it both incredible at the table with rich cuisine or a great candidate for short term aging.
Stephan Steinmetz is a star in the Mosel wine region. His old vines are rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone, the exact same vein of rock that winds its way from Sancerre through Chablis and Champagne to its final out-cropping here in the Obermosel. His Elbling is glorious — both completely unlike anything I’ve ever had and also eerily familiar. The color is almost clear, some might call it silver. A stunning nose of green apples and lemon peel gives way to fresh pear and bright citrus fruits on the palate. It’s a stunningly focused wine with a healthy dose of minerality and acid zip, not unlike great Sancerre/Chablis and bone dry.
For years now, I’ve been absolutely delighted by the White Burgundies at Domaine Corsin. There’s really good reason for that. The Corsin’s holdings in Pouilly-Fuissé include many of the best situated sites in the appellation. This wine comes from a selection of older vines grown in these limestone soils. The current vintage is simply showing fantastic at the moment. The 2020 Corsin Domain’s Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Vieilles Vignes’ displays a bright golden hue with a hint of green. Its subtle bouquet with a woody-vanilla note enhances the slightly sharp, sophisticated fullness on the palate mingled with a generous underlying impression of toasted bread.
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