Orders are available for pick-up at Restaurant Nicholas at 160 Route 35 South Red Bank, NJ 07701 during the following times:
Monday: 9:30-3:30; Tuesday – Friday: 9:15am – 9:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am – 9:00pm; Sunday: Closed
$35.00
This one is about as good as it gets.
I told you a few weeks ago when we offered the Vocoret that I was one of the stingiest Chablis critics out there. The reasons are varied but boil down to three huge factors.
First – though many wines say they come from a particular vineyard, they changed the rules so that many of the vineyards can just use the name of their more famous neighbors. Absurd, I know.
Secondly, soil and vintage matter. And when the Premiers Cru were massively expanded in the 80’s, many were expanded to now include Portlandian soil which makes a very different finished wine than the Kimmeridgian Marl that put the very top wines on the map.
Finally – many, many producers will make wine off a particular vineyard with results that vary widely. So – the moral is I have to taste each and every Chablis, each and every year – no matter what.
But when I find a homerun, you have some of the best white wine in the world – ready and willing to age for decades – at a fraction of the price Corton-Charlemagne (with which the best Chablis easily compete).
Directly across town from Grand Cru Les Clos lies one of the most interesting Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis – Les Vaillons. Yes, the soil is Kimmeridgian Marl and southeast-facing hillside bakes in the morning sun – allowing the grapes to achieve perfect ripeness despite the cool temperatures.
Many bottlings from this precious vineyard fetch between $60 and $100+ but not this stunner from Dampt. It’s a true family operation – and they actually own the land – keeping costs substantially lower than the neighbors.
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For years now, I’ve been absolutely delighted by the White Burgundies at Domaine Corsin. There’s really good reason for that. The Corsin’s holdings in Pouilly-Fuissé include many of the best situated sites in the appellation. This wine comes from a selection of older vines grown in these limestone soils. The current vintage is simply showing fantastic at the moment. The 2020 Corsin Domain’s Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Vieilles Vignes’ displays a bright golden hue with a hint of green. Its subtle bouquet with a woody-vanilla note enhances the slightly sharp, sophisticated fullness on the palate mingled with a generous underlying impression of toasted bread.
It’s an electric white Burgundy, with a limestone-laced aromatic profile of green apple, pear and hazelnut. Refined and high-toned, the pure, delicious fruit that is a hallmark of this terrific vintage, finishes long and fresh, with a mile-long mineral streak.
Gold Medal (Best in Show), 2023 Mundus Vini International Tasting
The area has also been isolated from the rest of Spain for generations, which has kept the wine prices far lower than wines of this quality would be anywhere else in the world. That’s why, despite having the Torres family name on the bottle and the consistent huge press (including the Gold Medal & Best in Show at the 2023 Mundus Vini International Wine Awards in Germany), these wines can still be scooped up for under $20/bottle. It’s like the Sancerre pricing of yesteryear.
92 Points (Best Buy), Wine Enthusiast – 90 Points, James Suckling
The winery could never expected their Tuscan Vermentino would become as integral as it has – even 25 years later, it’s still a key piece of the puzzle for Campo Maccione. It’s an unassuming wine with great viscosity and bright, savory flavors that way overdelivers for the price. James Suckling agreed, as did Wine Enthusiast. Suckling gave it a 90 and deemed it “an interesting take on Tuscan Vermentino.” Wine Enthusiast took it up a few notches, attaching a coveted ‘Best Buy’ designate to the wine along with a 92-point review for the wine “with a sophisticated restraint.”
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